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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - 3mz/1mz hybrid engine
Talk about aftermarket Toyota Solara Gen 1-1.5 upgrades.

3mz/1mz hybrid engine

Postby Sebas007 » Mon Sep 08, 2008 5:39 am

panic wrote:From what I can find, the 3MZ rods are far better than the 1MZ as well.


They are the same ! Oteck show us on TN.com

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=96238&highlight=1MZ+3MZ+rods

"it's 3vz rods | 22re eagle rods | 1mz rods.
the 1mz and 3mz rods are the same, the only diff is the 3mz uses 91.9mm pistons."
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Postby panic » Mon Sep 08, 2008 5:50 am

My data: 1MZ is powdered, 3MZ is forged.
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Postby Wraith » Wed Sep 10, 2008 4:47 pm

Gregtrd wrote:
Eye8Pussies wrote:good to hear....can't wait to see those dyno sheets to compare!

so I gather that you're only running the 4psi pulley right now?


No I running my 5.5 pulley, but with the 3mz block, it only reads 3psi, so I'm going with the 6psi pulley, ill play it safe for now. I think that the reason for the psi drop is because the pulleys are intened for a 3.0 an not a 3.3 engine.


thats weird ... is the 3mz-fe using a bigger crank pulley than the 1mz-fe ???
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Postby Gregtrd » Wed Sep 10, 2008 5:30 pm

DaTwUnKrAziEpInOy wrote:Don't know if I missed it or not...but just wondering Greg...are you using the 1MZ ECU or the 3MZ?


1mz ecu.
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Postby DaTwUnKrAziEpInOy » Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:00 pm

nice...

I'm really amazed what is only needed for this swap is a 3mz block, PS pump, and 3mz head gasket.
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Postby Gregtrd » Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:53 pm

DaTwUnKrAziEpInOy wrote:nice...

I'm really amazed what is only needed for this swap is a 3mz block, PS pump, and 3mz head gasket.


Well you also need to plug some holes on the block.
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Postby Mr_Chunkz » Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:55 pm

lol u said plug some holes
ok that was a long shot

the whole... 3mz boostin lower through the SC worries me though, for some reason it would lead me to believe the charger has to work harder, no?
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Postby JamesT » Thu Sep 11, 2008 12:01 am

Mr_Chunkz wrote:lol u said plug some holes
ok that was a long shot

the whole... 3mz boostin lower through the SC worries me though, for some reason it would lead me to believe the charger has to work harder, no?


I would assume it would work just as hard. The only difference being that there is more area for it to fill - using the same amount of air. Hence the lower PSI.
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Postby trd4life » Sun Sep 14, 2008 12:21 pm

I'm using the 1mz power steering pump no need to use the 3mz one.
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Postby panic » Sun Sep 14, 2008 3:47 pm

Ooppsss.
Conflicting data on which rods used where - not sure who to believe.
All agree that the 3MZ rods aren't great, VZ rods are much better (but can't be used due to smaller journal size).
Right now, AFAIK there is no killer rod made for the MZ, but the older 22R rod looks like an excellent swap - even the stock 22R rod is better than the 3MZ rod, and very cheap. Eagle makes a 4340 chrome-moly blah rod for the 22R that only requires minor work to fit the 3MZ - and it's about $500. a set.

More: http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/3MZ-c.htm#rods
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Postby KILLA CAM » Tue Sep 16, 2008 7:02 am

So if someone else were to do this hybrid 1MZ/3MZ and fit the Eagle rods, about how much boost could be safe to run? I'm just curious.
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Postby panic » Tue Sep 16, 2008 7:15 am

The problem is the same as any other engine - all better rods do is move the weak link downstream to the next component: the pistons.
After that, probably the head gasket.
Perhaps 20 psi? But that involves also a big compression drop or you drive over the crankshaft.

My point was that there are not only 2 possible choices for engine building:
1. completely stock
2. billet/titanium/overkill

There are frequently components available or adaptable far more cheaply than what shops want to sell you. There's no reason why pistons or rods should cost such ridiculous prices.
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