1MZ SC Dis-assembly DIY
by ASG14 » Sat Jun 07, 2008 9:17 am
PLEASE note, this is NOT for just the normal person, you HAVE to have some knowledge of cars.
Tools needed:
1: Hex for oil drain plug.
2: 10mm socket
3: Flathead screwdriver
4: Hammer or Rubber Mallet
1: Drain the SC oil. Let it sit over the edge of a low table where the bucket is. Once it stops coming out, tilt the SC on the side, so that he remaining SC oil can come out. Please take note that it will NOT get all of the oil out, so have paper towels ready for the other oil that will spill out a few steps later.
2: Unscrew all the 10MM bolts. Keep notice that the 2 longer bolts are on the side (1 long and 1 short shown for reference, the other long one goes under the long one shown).
3: Take off the SC nose. There are 3 spots for this as pictured below. Use a big flat head screwdriver or a very small pry bar. Pry the edges evenly, and very little at a time to prevent damage. I personally used a paper towel as a cushion on the screwdriver to try to prevent scratching.
4: If needed, this is the step where you change the coupler (black circle in the picture above). After a lot of use, the holes tend to “oval”, making it slightly loose, which is a common cause of the rattling in the SC’s. Use a very thin flathead screwdriver and evenly and slowly pry off the couple.
5: Taking out the Rotor’s. Basically, just go back to step #3, and do exactly the same thing. It was stuck on quite well, so I also did it another way. Once I got the rotor plate just slightly off the main SC, I used a flathead screwdriver (between rotor plate and SC) and rubber mallet, and VERY VERY VERY gently tapped it all around the edge till it popped loose. This is only if it’s really stuck on. But please, be careful when doing it this way. Pull out the rotor’s, but be careful with them please. Do not wipe off the blue grease on the end of the rotor.
6: SC re-assembly. For the most part, it’s just reversing the steps with a couple changes. Slowly put the Rotors back in, just as you took it out in the above step #5.
7: Cut out your own gasket to put between the rotor plate and nose. I learned this from King. It’s better then using RTV, which is what most people do.
8: Line up the holes on the couple with the holes on the gear, and push it on. IF this is a new coupler, it won’t easily push on, if much at all.
9: Screw down all the bolts in a star pattern, JUST as you would the lug nuts on your car. Same concept, even amount of pressure. Keep step #2 in mind, for where the 2 longer bolts go.
10: Put in the proper amount of SC oil (I used 6oz, which is 1.5 bottles, of GM Supercharger oil), and tighten the drain plug.
Tools needed:
1: Hex for oil drain plug.
2: 10mm socket
3: Flathead screwdriver
4: Hammer or Rubber Mallet
1: Drain the SC oil. Let it sit over the edge of a low table where the bucket is. Once it stops coming out, tilt the SC on the side, so that he remaining SC oil can come out. Please take note that it will NOT get all of the oil out, so have paper towels ready for the other oil that will spill out a few steps later.
2: Unscrew all the 10MM bolts. Keep notice that the 2 longer bolts are on the side (1 long and 1 short shown for reference, the other long one goes under the long one shown).
3: Take off the SC nose. There are 3 spots for this as pictured below. Use a big flat head screwdriver or a very small pry bar. Pry the edges evenly, and very little at a time to prevent damage. I personally used a paper towel as a cushion on the screwdriver to try to prevent scratching.
4: If needed, this is the step where you change the coupler (black circle in the picture above). After a lot of use, the holes tend to “oval”, making it slightly loose, which is a common cause of the rattling in the SC’s. Use a very thin flathead screwdriver and evenly and slowly pry off the couple.
5: Taking out the Rotor’s. Basically, just go back to step #3, and do exactly the same thing. It was stuck on quite well, so I also did it another way. Once I got the rotor plate just slightly off the main SC, I used a flathead screwdriver (between rotor plate and SC) and rubber mallet, and VERY VERY VERY gently tapped it all around the edge till it popped loose. This is only if it’s really stuck on. But please, be careful when doing it this way. Pull out the rotor’s, but be careful with them please. Do not wipe off the blue grease on the end of the rotor.
6: SC re-assembly. For the most part, it’s just reversing the steps with a couple changes. Slowly put the Rotors back in, just as you took it out in the above step #5.
7: Cut out your own gasket to put between the rotor plate and nose. I learned this from King. It’s better then using RTV, which is what most people do.
8: Line up the holes on the couple with the holes on the gear, and push it on. IF this is a new coupler, it won’t easily push on, if much at all.
9: Screw down all the bolts in a star pattern, JUST as you would the lug nuts on your car. Same concept, even amount of pressure. Keep step #2 in mind, for where the 2 longer bolts go.
10: Put in the proper amount of SC oil (I used 6oz, which is 1.5 bottles, of GM Supercharger oil), and tighten the drain plug.
- ASG14
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