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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - another knock sensor question!
Stock talk about the Generation 1 and 1.5 Toyota Solara which were produced from 1999 to 2003.

another knock sensor question!

another knock sensor question!

Postby shocar4 » Fri Dec 21, 2007 1:05 pm

i am going to be giving my new purchase a tune up over the winter months...like plugs, wire, removing sc'er and changing its oil, clean tb and maf...my question is would it be worth it while i am in there to go ahead and get down to the ks'er and wrap them with that silencing wrap that has been discussed before! i am not having any troubles with them, just a thought while i am in there!
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Postby Akfahad » Sat Dec 22, 2007 11:13 am

if you want to, totally up to you. I never did that, but then of course, I did end up blowing one. Couldn't hurt...
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Postby shocar4 » Sat Dec 22, 2007 12:33 pm

does anyone remember what the product is called that you wrap them with? like you said, it can't hurt!
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Postby Dawgz » Sat Dec 22, 2007 8:54 pm

why not just replace them with the GM knock sensors? or relocate them?
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Postby Dawgz » Sat Dec 22, 2007 8:55 pm

+ theres no point replacing/fixing something that isnt broken...
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Postby shocar4 » Sat Dec 22, 2007 9:52 pm

Dawgz wrote:+ theres no point replacing/fixing something that isnt broken...

i know dawgz that i am not having a problem ,but i thought that it might be worth taking the time to wrap them with something just to prolong the inevitable.....haven't really heard of anyone doing this before they have any problems, but it might make a little difference!
99DWP SC 4psi, TRD shortshifter, 305 RC's, Jim's fuel, iK22, 190lph walbro, ssfc, 170 thermo, greddy catback!(SOLD)
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Postby DatSRBoi » Sat Dec 22, 2007 10:29 pm

Do not wrap them. The sensors are bolt into the block, not laying on it.

Do not relocate them. Sorry if I offend anyone but relocating them is just as stupid as running race gas on a stock car. Its useless and can do more harm (When I say this I mean relocating them to the side of the motor where its only getting real signal on one cylinder rather 3 even signals). If you do not see 1000whp supras relocating theirs, then why start with a solara?

You can replace them if you want but its a bit of work and requires you to move allot of stuff to get to the sensors including (not sure what its call) the inner manifold of the car where the fuel and air actually mix. Allot of people who does this needs to understand you can see your intake valves at this point. You need to keep things clean. Anything that falls into the valves will stay in the valves.

If you replace them go the extra miles and get GM knock sensors. When you bolt them in take your time and do not force it tight or you will break the sensors itself. When you do the wiring SOLDER IT. Dont cheap skank tap it or it will go bad over time. If you want proof on this let me say this. I think I hold the record for being able to remove the SC fastest on this forum since I done it so many time. 10-15 minutes I can have EVERYTHING off an unbolted and numbered and 10-15 minutes again I can put it all back together. I did the knock sensor job in 35-40 minutes by the time I learn my lesson.

Any help needed just AIM me. I am here to help anyone at all time.
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Postby shocar4 » Sat Dec 22, 2007 10:49 pm

okay that is what i was looking for! i was just wondering while i was in there with the sc'er off was it worth it to do anything to the stock ks'ers! i will let them be until i blow one!
99DWP SC 4psi, TRD shortshifter, 305 RC's, Jim's fuel, iK22, 190lph walbro, ssfc, 170 thermo, greddy catback!(SOLD)
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Postby Dawgz » Sat Dec 22, 2007 10:55 pm

DatSRBoi wrote:Do not wrap them. The sensors are bolt into the block, not laying on it.

Do not relocate them. Sorry if I offend anyone but relocating them is just as stupid as running race gas on a stock car. Its useless and can do more harm (When I say this I mean relocating them to the side of the motor where its only getting real signal on one cylinder rather 3 even signals). If you do not see 1000whp supras relocating theirs, then why start with a solara?

You can replace them if you want but its a bit of work and requires you to move allot of stuff to get to the sensors including (not sure what its call) the inner manifold of the car where the fuel and air actually mix. Allot of people who does this needs to understand you can see your intake valves at this point. You need to keep things clean. Anything that falls into the valves will stay in the valves.

If you replace them go the extra miles and get GM knock sensors. When you bolt them in take your time and do not force it tight or you will break the sensors itself. When you do the wiring SOLDER IT. Dont cheap skank tap it or it will go bad over time. If you want proof on this let me say this. I think I hold the record for being able to remove the SC fastest on this forum since I done it so many time. 10-15 minutes I can have EVERYTHING off an unbolted and numbered and 10-15 minutes again I can put it all back together. I did the knock sensor job in 35-40 minutes by the time I learn my lesson.

Any help needed just AIM me. I am here to help anyone at all time.



Since when did a supra have a v6 engine?


then why would u compare knks for a supra with solaras.
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Postby DatSRBoi » Sat Dec 22, 2007 11:31 pm

Dawgz wrote:
Since when did a supra have a v6 engine?


then why would u compare knks for a supra with solaras.


If you would put your brains together and think about it, There are two knock sensors on a supra. 6 cylinders. Knock sensor sits on cylinder 2 and 5 right in the middle of the 3 cylinder design like the solara 2 on 5. So think about it why would they want to move those knock sensors on the supra when its getting even more vibration then the SC gives on the solara? Or would you prefere me to compare it to a V8? Or Turbo V6 ZXs? You get my drift. I compare supras since its easier to compare unless you really do not know anything about a supra. I could compare it to a flat 4 block but I doubt you would understand like you do with a supra.
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Postby JavaJoe_2 » Sat Dec 22, 2007 11:33 pm

GM KN's are a bolt in, I thought you needed an adapter???
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Postby DatSRBoi » Sat Dec 22, 2007 11:42 pm

JavaJoe_2 wrote:GM KN's are a bolt in, I thought you needed an adapter???


You do.
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Postby JavaJoe_2 » Sat Dec 22, 2007 11:49 pm

I just wanted to let people know that. It was never mentioned. I have a set, just in case. :D
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Postby DatSRBoi » Sun Dec 23, 2007 12:09 am

JavaJoe_2 wrote:I just wanted to let people know that. It was never mentioned. I have a set, just in case. :D


Its a tight fit on the front. Just remember when you install it don't let anything touch or sit on the knock sensor itself other then where it bolts onto the adapter to the block. And like allot of people, if you can replace that coolant hose there too.
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