SolaraGuy.com

Hey guys, my birthday is coming up (ill be 20 on 9/11) and typically my mom will get me decent car stuff for holidays. For example, on Christmas she got me my HID's, and on my birthday last year she got me the 5% tint done to my car. She always gets what I ask (though obviously Isn't gonna turbocharge the Solara...). So what should I do next? Right now I am considering the TRD RSB or TRD lowering springs (but I'm not sure how much installation on that will be).

Any other suggestions in a similar price range (~$200)?

lower it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

RSB FTW!

I was leaning towards lowering springs, but I just realized something, my car comes VERY close to bottoming out in my dads driveway. Ill measure it next weekend when I got home. I guess worst case I can get a piece of wood for the front tires to roll onto as I pull in/out to raise it back to stock height. But the DeLorean clears its (though I think it has a shorter wheel base, but it is lower). The trailer for our boat does not clear it (though not a big deal, just saying this for comparison. the boat has only been on the trailer 3 times, once when we bought it, and twice more going into the dealership to get some work done. otherwise its on the boat lift in the backyard)

Yea, I'm just a new guy, but I have some experience in things mechanical. Let me apologize in advance to anyone who may disagree with and/or take offense at this viewpoint! The basic theory behind suspension tuning is managing the vehicle's sprung weight.

On the subject of lowering....I prefer not to decrease the standing height of any car for the following reasons:

1) Indended suspension geometry and component relationships cannot be maintained (ie-lower control arm deflection angles)
2) Shorter springs in conjunction with stiffer shocks tend to wear out upper strut mounts (front and rear) at an alarming rate
3) You are placing your oil pan and exhaust system from 1/2" to 2" closer to speed bumps
4) IMHO, more effective suspension efficiency and better handling can be achieved through modified rate full height springs and properly-
matched strut insert valving
5) Sway bars are less effective on lowered vehicles. They operate on the relationship between the left and right sides of the car. Less movement=less effect.
6) Significantly harsher ride can be uncomfortable
7) Harder to get your food from the drive-in window (OK, that one's a joke)

OK, so the positives for lowering a vehicle:

1) It looks extremely cool!
2) Lower CG will result in better corner control than stock
3) It looks extremely cool!

So.........my approach to achieve a better cornering vehicle without exposing suspension components (or your kidneys) to undue wear is:

1) Heavier-valved strut inserts (more resistance to compression and rebound)
2) Both front and rear sway bars (slightly larger diameter if vehicle is already equipped)
3) Speed-rated quality tires
4) Take a class in performance driving (circuit racing, not drag racing)


For appearance and cosmetic reasons, lowering is very cool.............but if your intention and priority is improved handling, I prefer to approach it in a different manner.

chriscarter wrote:Yea, I'm just a new guy, but I have some experience in things mechanical. Let me apologize in advance to anyone who may disagree with and/or take offense at this viewpoint! The basic theory behind suspension tuning is managing the vehicle's sprung weight.

On the subject of lowering....I prefer not to decrease the standing height of any car for the following reasons:

1) Indended suspension geometry and component relationships cannot be maintained (ie-lower control arm deflection angles)
2) Shorter springs in conjunction with stiffer shocks tend to wear out upper strut mounts (front and rear) at an alarming rate
3) You are placing your oil pan and exhaust system from 1/2" to 2" closer to speed bumps
4) IMHO, more effective suspension efficiency and better handling can be achieved through modified rate full height springs and properly-
matched strut insert valving
5) Sway bars are less effective on lowered vehicles. They operate on the relationship between the left and right sides of the car. Less movement=less effect.
6) Significantly harsher ride can be uncomfortable
7) Harder to get your food from the drive-in window (OK, that one's a joke)

OK, so the positives for lowering a vehicle:

1) It looks extremely cool!
2) Lower CG will result in better corner control than stock
3) It looks extremely cool!

So.........my approach to achieve a better cornering vehicle without exposing suspension components (or your kidneys) to undue wear is:

1) Heavier-valved strut inserts (more resistance to compression and rebound)
2) Both front and rear sway bars (slightly larger diameter if vehicle is already equipped)
3) Speed-rated quality tires
4) Take a class in performance driving (circuit racing, not drag racing)


For appearance and cosmetic reasons, lowering is very cool.............but if your intention and priority is improved handling, I prefer to approach it in a different manner.

Those are some interesting points. I don't know if you have seen the TRD lowering kit, but i personally like it because its not TOO low. It is made specifically for our cars. Are the strut mounts really that big of a concern? I appreciate all your advice. I do have VERY high quality tires (Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus) so grip is great, and the car somes stock with a front bar, no better ones exist.

How uncomfortable would I expect the ride of the TRD springs to be?

Great tire choice.....I checked the TRD website and if I'm reading it correctly, these springs lower the rear by 1.5". To me, that's too much.

Another factor to consider....labor at a shop will be whatever the flat rate is for replacing 4 strut assys, PLUS maybe 1/2 hour for spring swap (when replacing struts, you keep the original springs compressed and just re-install them, not compress, release, compress new springs, release again as you have to do when replacing springs).

If your car has more than about 60K miles on it, I think replacing all upper strut mounts at this time is smart.

All this being said, if I were going to install lowering springs on any Solara, I would ONLY use the TRD springs. You can never go wrong with something from the original manufacturer. You may find something more performance oriented from an aftermarket supplier, but with TRD you have factory backing if something doesn't fit right and adversely affects something else!

My advice to you is to send TRD an e-mail asking all the questions you want concerning installed height, ride quality, warranty, and anything else that comes to mind. Have fun............

chriscarter wrote:Great tire choice.....I checked the TRD website and if I'm reading it correctly, these springs lower the rear by 1.5". To me, that's too much.

Another factor to consider....labor at a shop will be whatever the flat rate is for replacing 4 strut assys, PLUS maybe 1/2 hour for spring swap (when replacing struts, you keep the original springs compressed and just re-install them, not compress, release, compress new springs, release again as you have to do when replacing springs).

If your car has more than about 60K miles on it, I think replacing all upper strut mounts at this time is smart.

All this being said, if I were going to install lowering springs on any Solara, I would ONLY use the TRD springs. You can never go wrong with something from the original manufacturer. You may find something more performance oriented from an aftermarket supplier, but with TRD you have factory backing if something doesn't fit right and adversely affects something else!

My advice to you is to send TRD an e-mail asking all the questions you want concerning installed height, ride quality, warranty, and anything else that comes to mind. Have fun............

Thanks

I have 50k miles, and I have the KYB struts (come with sport model). I have a friend who knows the mechanics at his VW dealer, and said they would do it for a case of beer... I just met this guy so I'm not sure if that would really happen or not. I have a feeling TRD will give me a very generic answer for ride quality (warranty is already expired so thats not an issue), like "it decreases ride quality" or something uninformative like that, but I will try anyways.

But in general I figured TRD was a safe route to go because, as you said, its from the original manufacturer. I consider TRD parts to be something that SHOULD have been on the car stock, but due to cost and it not being suitable for ideal, they sell it separately.

You tow a small Seadoo jet boat right? I don't know if I would want to be towing a damn thing being lowered. I went camping last weekend and had myself, a front passenger, two passengers in the backseats and the trunk as loaded as it would go (almost had to jump on it to get it shut). I have/had 18'' Icons on at the time and the car looked lowered, in the back anyways. Long story short I'm driving down the road and hear a bang. I get the car home and my tire popped. The next day I put on my stock rims and found that my wheels were rubbing on my struts causing a 1 1\2'' hole. I couldn't even imagine dropping the car an inch and a half and then adding several hundred (possibly a 1000) pounds. Just some food for thought because I know how pissed I am to be rocking my stock rims right now

Jabraltar wrote:You tow a small Seadoo jet boat right? I don't know if I would want to be towing a damn thing being lowered. I went camping last weekend and had myself, a front passenger, two passengers in the backseats and the trunk as loaded as it would go (almost had to jump on it to get it shut). I have/had 18'' Icons on at the time and the car looked lowered, in the back anyways. Long story short I'm driving down the road and hear a bang. I get the car home and my tire popped. The next day I put on my stock rims and found that my wheels were rubbing on my struts causing a 1 1\2'' hole. I couldn't even imagine dropping the car an inch and a half and then adding several hundred (possibly a 1000) pounds. Just some food for thought because I know how pissed I am to be rocking my stock rims right now

No I don't have a boat that I pull.

Are you lowered? That's not normal...

coilovers, adjustable height, problem solved

Keep in mind that going from a 16" rim to an 18" rim extends the edge of the rim/tire both above and below the hub centerline. It won't be the full 1" both above and below because you're partially compensating with lower profile (40-or-50 aspect ratio tires), but the top of the tire will still be closer to the lower strut spring perch.

Going with the TRD springs should be fine. Consider that that Toyota offers it as an up-charge item on a brand new car. They wouldn't offer something that would put the car out of spec in a bad way and still cover it in warranty. You do have to be careful when it comes to springs, but usually it's more relating to the never-ending drop that some offer as they sag.

chriscarter wrote:Keep in mind that going from a 16" rim to an 18" rim extends the edge of the rim/tire both above and below the hub centerline. It won't be the full 1" both above and below because you're partially compensating with lower profile (40-or-50 aspect ratio tires), but the top of the tire will still be closer to the lower strut spring perch.

I'm kind of confused by what your saying... with my bigger (18" rim) I have lower profile tires... making it the same height tire as stock. And I believe for the Gen2 the stock rim is 17" not 16".

I'm thinking Gen 1.5 and 16" rims. But....you won't always end up with the exact same standing height. It will usually be off a little.

Aspect ratio (the 40, 50, 60, 70 series on your tire) refers to the sidewall height in relation to the tread width. Since the rim is increased by a fixed amount in inches, and the aspect ratio is decreased by a percentage (in an attempt to compensate), they will never match exactly.