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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - battery
Everything about the Toyota Camry.

battery

battery

Postby camry_101 » Sun May 28, 2006 9:30 pm

my car battery keeps dieing after a week of no driving i think it may be the alarm thats causeing it i have a remote start alarm should i get a more powerful battery btw the battery is new and i had toyota check on it and they didnt know whats causing it weird
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Postby Nodrogkam » Sun May 28, 2006 10:53 pm

do you have a cd changer or anything like that that could be sucking the power?

Your alarm shouldnt suck that much power unless its constantly set off and perhaps it has wailing lights that could light up a city block.

you could always resort to the pull fuses till the power consumption stops.
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Postby ASG14 » Mon May 29, 2006 8:18 am

I've had my car alarm on for several weeks and not driven and it was fine. But as Nod said, if you have an aftermarket CD changer, that CAN cause it, as it did in my dad's old '94 Accord.
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Postby DaTwUnKrAziEpInOy » Mon May 29, 2006 10:23 am

I agree too....it could be some kind of accessory that could be draining your battery, or maybe your alternator isn't charging the battery when you actually do run the car.
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Postby ASG14 » Mon May 29, 2006 12:04 pm

DaTwUnKrAziEpInOy wrote:I agree too....it could be some kind of accessory that could be draining your battery, or maybe your alternator isn't charging the battery when you actually do run the car.


Thats another idea. If you have an Auto Zone near you, they will test the batter and alternator for you with a machine. It's free, so worth a shot. :)
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Postby camry_101 » Mon May 29, 2006 4:23 pm

ASG14 wrote:
DaTwUnKrAziEpInOy wrote:I agree too....it could be some kind of accessory that could be draining your battery, or maybe your alternator isn't charging the battery when you actually do run the car.


Thats another idea. If you have an Auto Zone near you, they will test the batter and alternator for you with a machine. It's free, so worth a shot. :)


i tested them before and nothing wrong with them btw no i dont have a cd changer
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Postby Nodrogkam » Mon May 29, 2006 4:47 pm

fuse pulling time.
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Postby marc780 » Mon May 29, 2006 8:50 pm

You have something drawing power with the engine off. The engine computer will always draw a little bit of power but it is a tiny amount, like in the milliamps.
So maybe you have a hood or trunk light stuck on all the time, or some other draw. If you need a short term fix, install a battery shut off switch on the cable and just shut off the battery each time until it gets really anoying and/or you fix the problem for good.

If you have a volt ohmmeter (also called a multimeter) you can check the battery and alt quickly. Just set the meter for "12v DC" and put the probes on the battery.
Engine off battery should be AT LEAST 12.4 V. 12.6 or greater is better.
And now start the car and let it idle first for two or three minutes, (more accurate). And now put the probes on the battery again and your meter should read at least 14.0 volts. If it is less than 14 then either your alt is bad or belt is slipping, so change them. (Acceptable range = 13.9 - 15.0 volts, engine running at idle)
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Postby camry_101 » Tue May 30, 2006 4:45 pm

marc780 wrote:You have something drawing power with the engine off. The engine computer will always draw a little bit of power but it is a tiny amount, like in the milliamps.
So maybe you have a hood or trunk light stuck on all the time, or some other draw. If you need a short term fix, install a battery shut off switch on the cable and just shut off the battery each time until it gets really anoying and/or you fix the problem for good.

If you have a volt ohmmeter (also called a multimeter) you can check the battery and alt quickly. Just set the meter for "12v DC" and put the probes on the battery.
Engine off battery should be AT LEAST 12.4 V. 12.6 or greater is better.
And now start the car and let it idle first for two or three minutes, (more accurate). And now put the probes on the battery again and your meter should read at least 14.0 volts. If it is less than 14 then either your alt is bad or belt is slipping, so change them. (Acceptable range = 13.9 - 15.0 volts, engine running at idle)
also my idle is really low the rpm is not even at 1 during standstill i think it is flippin up my intake too the intake shuts off completely sometimes unless i step on the gas anyone know how to fix it or can fix for me thanks!!!
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Postby ASG14 » Tue May 30, 2006 5:29 pm

Camry Idle for botht he 1MZ and 5S should be ~750.
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Postby camry_101 » Tue May 30, 2006 5:35 pm

another thiung i know this is disscussed so many freakin time i cant find the gray connector on 2000 camry ive see the pic where it should be from other post and nothing is it different opn camry or what!!!
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Postby DaTwUnKrAziEpInOy » Tue May 30, 2006 5:48 pm

are you talking about the daytime running lights ??
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Postby camry_101 » Tue May 30, 2006 5:56 pm

yes
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Postby Nodrogkam » Tue May 30, 2006 8:19 pm

my camry idles at about 600rpms.

did you get an aftermarket intake? If so you should have reset your computer by disconnecting the battery for a while. Otherwise your throttle body could be dirty.
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Postby Yanks0114 » Thu Jun 01, 2006 5:36 pm

marc780 wrote:
If you have a volt ohmmeter (also called a multimeter) you can check the battery and alt quickly. Just set the meter for "12v DC" and put the probes on the battery.
Engine off battery should be AT LEAST 12.4 V. 12.6 or greater is better.
And now start the car and let it idle first for two or three minutes, (more accurate). And now put the probes on the battery again and your meter should read at least 14.0 volts. If it is less than 14 then either your alt is bad or belt is slipping, so change them. (Acceptable range = 13.9 - 15.0 volts, engine running at idle)


Your numbers are off.
Car Off: Voltage can be as low as 11.5
Idle: 12.5+
Driving: ~13.5+ (expect lower if your using air condition, head lights, etc)

I have been monitoring my voltage via my passport 8500 for atleast 4 years. All of the cars in my family have the passport 8500 all set to voltage mode, so i'm very confident in the numbers.


...As for the battery - it is very possible that it has a bad cell. I had a similar problem with my yellow top battery, and replacing it did the trick. It was covered under warranty.

The alarm definately does drain the battery. Even with a deep cycle, optima yellow top, i only get 1 - 2 weeks before it goes dead.

If you have the car in a garage, get a battery maintainer. It trickle charges the battery so its always ready to go
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