SolaraGuy.com

My brake has been worn out pretty bad, and finally i got my new brake rotors and pads delivered.
I was also going to do brake line replacement by myself, but one of the lugnuts on the brake line was very tight and could not get it off (without stripping it), so i decided to let someone else do it...

anyways, i took some pictures of process, and created a little tutorials on my page.
probably most people do only brake pads replacement. it is pretty easy and probably takes about an hour or two for all four wheels.

let me know if there's anything i should add or change.
thanks

http://web.mac.com/tacti/iWeb/Solara/brake.html

Tacti

nice tutorials, and great pictures! well done!

fyi, "this metal thing" is called the torque plate

and here are some specs for bolt torque on installation...
(note - these are from the haynes manual for gen 1-1.5)

caliper mounting bolts
front: 25 ft-lbs
rear: 168 in-lbs

torque plate bolts
front: 79 ft-lbs
rear: 34 ft-lbs

brake hose banjo bolt: 22 ft-lbs

dont forget to grease the caliper sliding pins and put anti-sieze or disc brake quiet on the backs of your new pads!

good tutorial

you should have clean or repainted your calipers, its the best time to do it.

thanks for the comments.
i thought about repainting the caliper as well, but the templature is way to cold to paint up here in ohio..
probably i'll do it when i change my rims to summer tire in spring.

i'll up date the page with "torque plate" and also the correct torque for each bolts.

Thanks.

Tacti

i know what u mean, paintin the cold is not a great idea. The high today here was 19* (feels like 6*)... its so cold, even in the garage.

A few more things to keep in mind and probably add:

1. Once it's secured, release the e-brake if you're doing the back wheels, or put it in neutral when you're doing the front to facilitate the replacement of the rotors. When I was doing my front rotors, it took an act of congress to remove it, even with the biggest claw hammer in the garage; then my neighbor put it in neutral, turned the rotor by hand 360 degrees and took it right off... My jaw was on the floor at that point and I didn't even have to hammer the other wheel at all; it was already loosened.

2. Expect the BMF reservoir to overflow once you have compressed the caliper, especially if say... You topped it off a few weeks ago when it was "low", but would flow back into the reservoir once compressed, so don't forget to remove the cap.

3. If you used a spreader (what I used), it would need the caliper to be removed first. Example of a spreader:


4. For the really tough things, use a breaker bar to remove the tighter bolts (some of you know this, some of you probably don't), or if you're ghetto like me, a hollow pipe slipped over your torque wrench.

Wow..you've put a lot of effort into your ride as well as the site. keep it up!

i especially liked the blinking side mirrors. now i am tempted to get those. were those custom made?

reelss wrote:Wow..you've put a lot of effort into your ride as well as the site. keep it up!

i especially liked the blinking side mirrors. now i am tempted to get those. were those custom made?

ask michael t customs

Biggi_e wrote:

reelss wrote:Wow..you've put a lot of effort into your ride as well as the site. keep it up!

i especially liked the blinking side mirrors. now i am tempted to get those. were those custom made?

ask michael t customs

Thanks Eddie.

Great job on the tutorial Tact! I'm sure others will benefit as well.

Looks very nice in person and I too would like to get some later on.

-M

tacti~ what pads and rotors did you buy?

Thanks guys for info and prop.
btw, what is the spreader for? I'm guessing from the name, it does something like removing rotor from the hub, but can't imagine how the item in the picture work....

anyways, the rotors and pads are from R1 Concept.
http://www.r1concepts.com/
you can find their items on ebay as well, but the price is not different from what you get by ordering directly...

so far, the brake rotors have been working great, and they are really quiet.
be honest, the drilled/slotted rotors has done nothing more than looks nice, compare to stock rotors.

tact

you didnt need to bleed the brake system?

I just did mine this past weekend - didn't need to bleed anything if you don't open up the system!






Gonna add the Stoptech lines next week - then the bleeding will ensue!

are there any update on brake lines by stoptech?
i got refund for my lines (it didn't fit), and they said they will contact me once everything is solved (finding why some people can install without any problem, and some have just front or rear, or both)...

i could not find the newer post that probably more appropriate, so i'm posting here
(it's always easier to find your own thread than others...)

any news will be appreciated!

Tacti

Here's the original post you were looking for.

http://solaraguy.org/viewtopic.php?t=32 ... sc&start=0

It seems to have been abandoned a while ago. I really had no problems with my SS brake lines and I ordered them just a couple of days after you I think. Ask PXL though cuz he was still waiting on his according to the last post on that thread.

-Ro