My AVIC-D3 Install

[mattx619]

The hardest part was figuring out a way to frame the receiver in the navi dash piece...but the most frustrating was trying to get the dash piece that has the clock and temp gauge out. I took it apart again today and it came out much easier so I dunno

ALSO

The PAC SWI-PS doesn't work with our cars apparently. I took the dash apart again today and checked all the connections and such and it still won't program. $76 down the drain *rollseyes*

I doubt the BT module would be difficult, it uses the IP bus connection on the back of the D3 I believe. So you plug that in and mount the box somewhere nearby. Luckily its not too difficult or time consuming to get our dashes apart to access the HU.

**EDIT: One more thing, you lose the DISP button on your steering wheel when removing the stock head unit, so you'd better have that display set to something useful like RANGE before you disconnect it. I had mine on AVG MPG the first time I removed it, so today when I was working on it again, I plugged in the old HU and changed it to range. Just a tip so save whoever removes the oem unit about 15 minutes down the road

Cool, thanks. Good to know all of that info, especially the display screen. I'm not in love with the idea of splicing or soldering wires. I'm also not in the mood to pay $300 for installation with the amount of good posts here and at avic411.com.

I'll likely give it a shot myself. I have heard terrible things about the bt100 bluetooth module as far inconsistent performance. I will likely just have the Sirius module to start out with and eventually put in the revised bluetooth module, bt200.

[XEusioN]

Well you are certainly going to have to splice/solder for the main harness (12V, ACC, GND, ILL, ANT Power, Speaker Leads)

On the last head unit install I used crimp clamps and they worked just fine, but this time I ran to home depot and snagged a soldering iron for $15. I think it was well worth the money and time spent to have a much more solid and reliable connection. Even if you havent soldered before, I'm sure you'll figure it out pretty quick...grab a few spare wires and play with it for a little bit.

I have no plans to get the BT module because I think its stupid. I don't want all my passengers hearing my conversation, and I have a pretty good BT headset in the first place. (Jabra JX10)

Next add-on I'll get will be the XM Tuner for Music and Nav Traffic

[dvdchris45]

It doesnt matter whether you leave your display button on "Range" or not. The second you disconnect your battery it will go back to the "real-time" readout of the avg mpg. I think the display function button is it's own separate wire in the steering column that needs to be grounded.

I personally gave up and dont recall which one it is.

[mattx619]

Since i'll be upgrading from the JBL 6-disc system, do you know whether I should interface with the jbl amplifier and not go directly to the speakers?

[mcsoccer7]

**EDIT: One more thing, you lose the DISP button on your steering wheel when removing the stock head unit, so you'd better have that display set to something useful like RANGE before you disconnect it. I had mine on AVG MPG the first time I removed it, so today when I was working on it again, I plugged in the old HU and changed it to range. Just a tip so save whoever removes the oem unit about 15 minutes down the road

Actually you don't have to loose the display control. Take the yellow wire from the wiring harness that comes from your steering controls (the one with only 3 wires) and ground it. You may have to add an extension wire to it to reach a good grounding point. Once you do this, the control will work again.

[XEusioN]

^Thanks for the tip, I'll give that a shot.

matt: That depends on how the JBL Amp receives it's input. If it's taking a high level input, then you can wire it directly to the amp...but if the JBL H/U is sending a low-level signal to the amp, than you should use the RCA pre-outs from the D3 instead.

You may want to do some more research on this because you can fry your amp in half a second by feeding it a high level input its not expecting.

[mattx619]

^Thanks for the tip, I'll give that a shot.

matt: That depends on how the JBL Amp receives it's input. If it's taking a high level input, then you can wire it directly to the amp...but if the JBL H/U is sending a low-level signal to the amp, than you should use the RCA pre-outs from the D3 instead.

You may want to do some more research on this because you can fry your amp in half a second by feeding it a high level input its not expecting.

I believe there is a harness kit of somesort. I will definitely look into this when i get my d3.