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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Independent Fog Light DIY please!
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Independent Fog Light DIY please!

Independent Fog Light DIY please!

Postby philosophicaljt » Mon Jul 23, 2007 5:14 pm

I have been searching and searching and searching.

I really need a way to do the Independent fog light trick on our gen2's! I read Josh's page, great write-up. But its for First Gens.

Anyone on here have any experience with making the fogs work seperately from the healights?

I really wanna do this, I have done it on all my other cars, and I love it. Also makes it more functional in fog (my lowbeams tend to make fog worse (on previous cars), so I'd rather just run my fogs :))

Has anyone done this on our 2004+ solaras?
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Postby philosophicaljt » Wed Jul 25, 2007 10:39 am

seriously. I cannot believe someone has not figured this out yet.
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Postby [SMAN] » Wed Jul 25, 2007 12:07 pm

Ok, I've been looking over this, and it's not as easy as i've seen others. The way this system works is it is tied directly into the tail light assembly. In that the fog light relay is only tripped when power is going to the tail lights. Now, there is a way to get independant control for it, but it's not going to be pretty. As far as i can tell, because the relay is tied into the rear running lights, so the auto turnoff functions will not work if you bypass the relay. After looking through the wireing diagrams, i beleive it is possible to make this light work on it's own. If it is as simple as i think it is, the wiring diagram says that if you apply a positive wire to Pin 4 in connector 2L, that it should trip the foglight relay. Now, as far as i can tell, you should be able to leave this as a constant because the other end is controlled by the switch on your stearing wheel. Now as you see from the diagram, there is a 10A fuse wired inline with this wire we are cutting, so when you tap it directly to power, I would put a 10A fuse inline with it just to be safe. This first picture is of the relay. It hsould be obviouse what to do.

Image

This next picture is a picture of the junction block, you should be able to tell which plug you need to work with. This unit is under the stearing wheel, so you will need to remove the whole trim pannel to get to it.
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I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS MYSELF YET, I AM SIMPLY GOING BY THE WIRING DIAGRAMS. PLEASE TEST THIS MOD AT YOUR OWN RISK.
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Postby philosophicaljt » Wed Jul 25, 2007 1:34 pm

hey, thats very helpful. I will be trying this. Possibly tonight If i can get to the dealer fast enough (I buy spare parts to work on, and if they have it in stock (doubtful)).

Thanks.

You are becoming my favorite member. you have been nothing but helpful, in almost everypost of yours.

As gratitude, if this works, I will send you money via paypal if thats okay :)
Last edited by philosophicaljt on Wed Jul 25, 2007 1:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby [SMAN] » Wed Jul 25, 2007 1:37 pm

It was in the lighting section, page 9.

Paypal money is not neccassary. I'm just trying to help out here and maybe make a name for myself. Plus i don't have a lot to do this summer so i'm allmsot allways online.
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Postby philosophicaljt » Wed Jul 25, 2007 1:57 pm

Well, I am off to the dealer, back on near 7:30pm.
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Postby kpxboi0619 » Wed Jul 25, 2007 3:10 pm

Oh I was about to do this
since my friend knew how to do it
but I went to the dealer and they said it would end the warranty.... so can't do it until I reach 30K miles :(
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Postby philosophicaljt » Wed Jul 25, 2007 3:46 pm

Well, as i understand this, You are telling me to cut where the green x is. Then to connect it to what? If that is what is triggering the relay, wouldn't I want to connect that to something that is connected to the driving lights or the DRL's?

And where does the switch come into play? I'm gonna look at my own wiring, brb.
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Postby [SMAN] » Wed Jul 25, 2007 3:52 pm

The switch comes into play in pin 7 on B9 also known as FFGO, so that is the ground end, thus the other end (where the cut is) needs to be +12 volts. You should multi meter this whole thing before testing. As for imput, my issue is this, your DRLs don't have the running lights on. So to get your fogs on both times, you would have to tap into several wires, and diode isolate them. This gets a lot more complicated.
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Postby ---CAMRAZY--- » Wed Jul 25, 2007 3:59 pm

Here you go.....

http://thatvideosite.com/video/2488


Don't forget the foil.... LOL.
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Postby iinokturnolii » Wed Jul 25, 2007 4:08 pm

^^^ OUCH!!! LOL!!!

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"Toasty!"
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Postby ClassySolaraGuy » Wed Jul 25, 2007 4:17 pm

LMAO!
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Postby philosophicaljt » Wed Jul 25, 2007 6:54 pm

---CAMRAZY--- wrote:Here you go.....

http://thatvideosite.com/video/2488


Don't forget the foil.... LOL.


Why the disrespect? Seriously not appreciated.
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Postby philosophicaljt » Wed Jul 25, 2007 6:57 pm

[SMAN] wrote:The switch comes into play in pin 7 on B9 also known as FFGO, so that is the ground end, thus the other end (where the cut is) needs to be +12 volts. You should multi meter this whole thing before testing.


You are amazing. So all I need to do then, is to cut where the green x is, and wire the "right" side to a 12v source (and ground the other side of the cut?) And then the Switch controls when the fogs would be on and off by completing the circuit (ground side switch).

So whats the red x for then?
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Postby [SMAN] » Wed Jul 25, 2007 9:09 pm

I'm guessing that should work, you don't need to ground the other side. I would meter it to test this before you do anything just to make sure.
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