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Clutch help

Clutch help

Postby TeddySolara » Fri May 27, 2011 3:27 pm

I'm so sad.. my solara died in the middle of the freeway and a cop came by and I got a dui.. Does anyone know how much a new clutch is and how much labor is. Anyone willing to help me do it for free or cheap.. I live by disneyland. number is 714-705-9842
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Re: Clutch help

Postby ThurzNite » Fri May 27, 2011 3:57 pm

Sounds like a fun project. Are you v6 or i4? Do you have tools?

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Re: Clutch help

Postby yaddadaimsayin » Fri May 27, 2011 4:00 pm

loll
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Re: Clutch help

Postby ThurzNite » Fri May 27, 2011 4:18 pm

Just copy and pasting...

Disconnect the negative battery cable to the battery. On vehicles equipped with an air bag, wait at least 90 seconds before proceeding.
Remove the air cleaner assembly.
On models with cruise control, remove the actuator cover, unplug the connector, remove the 3 bolts, then disconnect the actuator with the bracket.
Remove the clutch release cylinder and tube clamp.
Peel the rubber boot away and remove the nut and disconnect the negative battery cable from the magnetic switch terminal on the starter. Disconnect the electrical connector also located on the magnetic switch.
Support the starter by hand and remove the two mounting bolts.
Remove the starter from the transaxle.
Disconnect the electrical harness from the back-up switch, which is mounted on the transaxle case.
Remove the ground strap.
Disconnect the wires clamp.
Remove the clips and washers that attach the transaxle control cables to the control levers. Remove the retaining clips and disconnect the transaxle control cables.
Disconnect the speed sensor connector.
Install a engine support fixture.
Tie the steering gear housing to the engine support fixture with a cord.
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the front wheel(s).
Remove the front fender apron seal.
Drain the transaxle.
Disconnect the tie rod end from the steering knuckle by removing the cotter pin and nut. Using tool SST 09628-62011, or equivalent, separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle.
Disconnect the stabilizer bar link from the lower control arm. Make note of the washers and cushions positions.
Disconnect the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle by removing the bolt and 2 nuts.
Push down on the lower control arm and separate the steering knuckle from the ball joint.
Remove the cotter pin, lock cap and locknut holding the halfshaft to the steering knuckle.
Using a plastic hammer, disconnect the halfshaft from the steering knuckle.

Remove the left halfshaft from the transaxle as follows:
Use a brass bar and hammer to tap the inner joint out of the transaxle.
Remove the halfshaft.
Once the halfshaft is removed from the vehicle, remove the snapring from the halfshaft.

Remove the right halfshaft from the transaxle as follows:
Remove the bearing lockbolt. The lockbolt is located in the center of the halfshaft, near the dampener.
Using snapring pliers, remove the snapring and pull the halfshaft from the transaxle.

Disconnect the steering gear housing from the front suspension member as follows:
Remove the 4 bolts.
Remove the stabilizer bar bushing bracket.
Remove the 2 set bolts and nuts.
Disconnect the steering gear box from the suspension member and suspend it securely.

Remove the exhaust pipe.
Remove the stiffener plate.
Disconnect the engine front mounting from the suspension member by removing the 2 bolts.
Disconnect the engine rear mounting from the front suspension member by removing the 2 grommets and the 3 nuts.
With a transaxle jack and block of wood, raise the transaxle and engine slightly and disconnect the left engine mounting.
Disconnect the steering cooler pipe from the suspension member.
Remove the 2 fender liner set screws.
Disconnect the front suspension member as follows:
Remove the 2 bolts and 4 nuts located on the outside of the brackets.
Remove the 4 larger bolts holding the suspension member to the vehicle body.
Remove the 2 front lower braces, rear braces, and the front suspension member.

Remove the 6 transaxle mounting bolts from the engine.
Lower the left side of the engine and remove the transaxle.
Clean the mating surfaces of grease and dirt in preparation for reinstallation.

Matchmark the clutch cover to the flywheel.
Loosen each set bolt 1 turn at a time until spring tension is released.
Once the tension on the springs are released, remove the clutch pressure plate retaining bolts.
Remove the clutch cover.
Remove the clutch disc.
Remove the retaining clip and withdraw the release bearing from the transaxle.
Remove the release fork and boot assembly.

Remove the flywheel sub-assembly.

To install:

Install the flywheel sub assembly. Make sure the eight bolts and holes are clean.
Apply a thread lock to two or three of the bolts. Torque, using several steps, until you reach 65 ft.lbs (88 Nm). For the flywheel, torque to 36 ft.lbs.
Mark the bolts with paint and retighten them another 90 degrees in the same sequence.

Using a suitable clutch disc alignment tool, install the clutch disc onto the flywheel.
Position the clutch cover onto the flywheel and align the matchmarks.
Install the clutch cover retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm).
Lubricate the release fork pivot contact points and the release bearing, bearing hub and input shaft spline surfaces with a suitable molybdenum disulfide lithium based or multi-purpose grease.
Install the boot, release fork, hub and bearing assemblies.

Move the transaxle into position so that the input shaft spline is aligned with the clutch disc.
Install the transaxle into the engine and secure with the lower mounting bolts. Tighten the 10mm mounting bolts to 47 ft. lbs. and 12mm bolts to 34 ft. lbs. (46 Nm).
Install the front suspension member to the vehicle and install the 2 front lower braces and rear lower braces. Install the 4 large bolts that hold the suspension member to the vehicle. Tighten the bolts to 134 ft. lbs. (181 Nm).
Install the 2 outside bolts and 4 outside nuts. Tighten the bolts to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
Install the 2 fender liner set screws.
Connect the steering cooler pipe to the suspension member.
Raise the transaxle and engine slightly with a jack and wooden block.
Install the engine left mounting as follows:
Install the engine left mounting, then install the 3 bolts. Tighten the bolts to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm).
Install the 2 nuts and 2 grommets. Tighten the nuts to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm).

Install the engine rear mounting to the front suspension member by installing the 3 nuts and 2 grommets. Tighten the nuts to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm).
Install the engine front mounting to the suspension member and install the nut and 2 bolts. Tighten the bolt to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm).
Install the stiffener plate and tighten the bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
Install the exhaust pipe.
Install the steering gear housing to the front suspension member as follows:
Lower the steering gear housing onto the suspension member.
Install the 2 set bolts and nuts. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 134 ft. lbs. (181 Nm).
Install the stabilizer bar bushing bracket.
Install the 4 bolts and tighten to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm).

To install the right halfshaft to the transaxle:
Coat the side gear shaft and differential case sliding surface with gear oil.
Using snapring pliers, install the snapring to the halfshaft.
Install the halfshaft and the bearing lockbolt. Tighten the lockbolt to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).

To install the left halfshaft to the transaxle:
Install a new snapring to the inner spline of the halfshaft.
Coat the side gear shaft and differential case sliding surface with gear oil.
Install the halfshaft to the transaxle with the snapring opening facing down. The halfshaft should click into place when installing.
After installation of the halfshaft, check that the halfshaft cannot be removed by hand.

Connect the halfshaft to the steering knuckle, then install the locknut. Tighten the locknut to 217 ft. lbs. (294 Nm).
Install the lock cap and a new cotter pin to the halfshaft.
Connect the steering knuckle to the lower ball joint. Install the 2 nuts and bolt. Tighten the nuts and bolt to 94 ft. lbs. (127 Nm).
Connect the stabilizer bar link to the lower control arm. Tighten the nut to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).
Connect the tie rod to the steering knuckle and tighten the nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). Install a new cotter pin to the tie rod end.
Install the front fender apron seal.
Install the wheel(s) and lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm).

Fill the transaxle with transaxle fluid.
Untie the steering gear housing from the engine support fixture.
Remove the engine support fixture from the vehicle.
Connect the vehicle speed sensor.
Connect the control cables by installing the washers and clips.
Connect the clamp that retains the wires to the transaxle.
Connect the back-up light switch connector and ground cables.
Place the starter motor in the transaxle and support by hand.
Install the two mounting bolts and tighten them to 29-31 ft. lbs. (39-42 Nm).
Connect the connector to the magnetic switch. Place the battery cable on the switch terminal and install the nut. Tighten the nut and position the rubber boot over the cable.
Install the pipe clamp and clutch release cylinder to the transaxle. Tighten the bolts to 108 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
If equipped with cruise control, install the actuator and bracket with the 3 bolts. Connect the actuator connector and install the cover.
Install the air cleaner case assembly.
Connect the negative battery cable to the battery.

Dr J
Last edited by ThurzNite on Tue May 31, 2011 12:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Clutch help

Postby TeddySolara » Fri May 27, 2011 9:35 pm

umm mine is a not a v6.
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Re: Clutch help

Postby TeddySolara » Fri May 27, 2011 9:36 pm

ThurzNite wrote:Sounds like a fun project. Are you v6 or i4? Do you have tools?

Dr J

noo tools or anything.. its a v6
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Re: Clutch help

Postby ThurzNite » Fri May 27, 2011 10:14 pm

By the books, it's a 7.1 hour job, and just throwing a number out, $16/hr... $113.60 for the labor, plus incidentals... I can pick it up from you in the morn and return in the evening, assuming everything goes smoothly. Have you started getting the parts together yet?

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Re: Clutch help

Postby Gregtrd » Sat May 28, 2011 1:22 am

ThurzNite
As part of labor,I didn't see anything about resurfacing of the flywheel maybe I missed it
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Re: Clutch help

Postby TeddySolara » Sat May 28, 2011 2:14 pm

ThurzNite wrote:By the books, it's a 7.1 hour job, and just throwing a number out, $16/hr... $113.60 for the labor, plus incidentals... I can pick it up from you in the morn and return in the evening, assuming everything goes smoothly. Have you started getting the parts together yet?

Dr J

hey thurznite. can you call me and have this conversation?
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Re: Clutch help

Postby hskrsolara » Mon May 30, 2011 9:28 am

Gregtrd wrote:ThurzNite
As part of labor,I didn't see anything about resurfacing of the flywheel maybe I missed it


yep, pretty crucial.
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Re: Clutch help

Postby TeddySolara » Tue May 31, 2011 8:46 am

So I just spoke with a mechanic and they said they are not even sure if its the clutch that has a problem. Cuz if you put your car in gear and turn on the engine it would stall but my car didnt. so not so sure what the problem is. Does anyone know what really the problem is?
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Re: Clutch help

Postby 1gSE » Tue May 31, 2011 11:40 am

what? When I put my car in gear and start the engine, it does the same thing it does if I were to start it in neutral. The car shutting off on you could be a loooonnngggg list of things....
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Re: Clutch help

Postby ToyoSolV6 » Tue May 31, 2011 11:47 am

TeddySolara wrote:So I just spoke with a mechanic and they said they are not even sure if its the clutch that has a problem. Cuz if you put your car in gear and turn on the engine it would stall but my car didnt. so not so sure what the problem is. Does anyone know what really the problem is?

do you mean if you start the car, put it in any gear and then let go of the clutch the car does not stall it stays as if it were in neutral?
IF thats the case the clutch is completely gone, its just spinning inside the trans without gripping anything. You probably fried the clutch plate and even shaved the rivets on the plate as well.
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Re: Clutch help

Postby ThurzNite » Tue May 31, 2011 12:48 pm

Gregtrd wrote:ThurzNite
As part of labor,I didn't see anything about resurfacing of the flywheel maybe I missed it

Good point! Should I add that in or let some poor sap figure it out on his own cuz he didn't read the rest of the thread?

Yeah, I just copied/pasted from another toyota site.

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