Need Maintenance Opinions

[Ruski]

Its been a long time guys. Still around ...
So im going ahead and doing some winter maintenance and need some opinions help.

Lets start with a radiator drain, my fluid is starting to get a blackish tint to it and i haven't changed it for over 80k. I plan on doing a dump through drain plug, refilling with water, running car for a couple minutes draining that . about 2-3 times depending on clarity of drained water. Now my question is what radiator fluid should i get Toyota Long Lasting 50/50 or a full blend and then mix it to 50/50. There should be about 2L of water left in the engine and about 4L will be added of fresh radiator fluid. I need an input on what to get a 50/50mix or a pure blend ?

Onto brakes. im doing a front rotor and pad replacement since my rotors have warped after about 25k on them. i used R1 style rotors from Ebay and OEM pads. Im looking to go to something a little stiffer on stoping power. With out breaking the bank. Can you guys recommend some rotors and pads that can hold up to my driving. i was looking at TireRack rotors called Centric Premium Rotor any input would be great, along with a pad recommendation? If you guys could throw some combos out there that you run or really like.
Im also looking to change out brake fluid to Super Blue Dot 4, Anyone run this ? or any input is it worth the time ? keep in mind i do need to change out fluid.

Any input GEN 2 Guys, Thank You

[ACProductions]

I know I'm not a 2nd Gen guy but here is my 2 cents

The mix depends on the temperature you are expecting to see with the car. The colder temperature outside the more you want to favor the mix to the glycol side (rad fluid). Your regular 50/50 will hold pretty damn decent I think up to 0 degrees.

As for mixing yourself, I always recommend this, while it's a dollar or 2 more expensive that premixed, you end up with more leftover coolant.

Also I recommend using a bottle of flush if you rad fluid has gone that long without a change. Completely safe to use on your car, so long as you don't have any leaks that you never patched up. If the system is in good condition with no leaks than I'd recommend a bottle of flush.

Now onto brakes.

Firstly the DOT 4 fluid. COMPLETELY UNNECESSARY. Honestly, unless you drive around everyday like a rally driver, you won't need DOT 4. DOT 4 is just a brake fluid with a higher boiling point, which is important to your track cars because they get those brakes blistering hot. For you average car? Overkill/waste of money

So you want better braking performance? You have 2 options. Better Pads or Better Rotors. You can use a fairly normal pad with some nice slotted rotors OR some gooooooood pads with regular rotors. What do I recommend? Good rotors with decent pads.

Really aggressive pads tend to kill your stock rotors, product more noise (squealing and such), and way more brake dust. Plus they usually operate at higher temps, which means that the hotter they get, the better they brake which is of no real use for DDs

So what do I recommend as a combo?
These slotted rotors: (they are a very good website, ship fast w/ tracking numbers, and a LIFETIME WARRANTY)
http://brakeperformance.com/brake-rotor ... Rotors.php

As for pads I highly recommend Autozone's Duralast Cmax Gold: (They are a semi-cermaic pad with low dust production, and a LIFETIME WARRANTY)
Fronts:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ ... 848_16108_
Rears:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ ... 848_16108_


I can't stress how good these pads are. Sure they are on the expensive side but with that lifetime warranty they more than make up for it. I've used them several times on several different cars and they have never disappointed.

That combo will give you some rather impressive stopping power, plus brakes for life.

[Ruski]

bump