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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Gen 2 CP-e users come here!
Talk about aftermarket Toyota Solara Gen 2 and 2.5 upgrades.

Gen 2 CP-e users come here!

Gen 2 CP-e users come here!

Postby CosmicGrooves » Fri Mar 16, 2007 10:14 pm

So... how much difference does this REALLY make? I mean, is it really worth the $500? What about gas mileage?

I don't want to spend $500 just so it sounds meaner... if i'm spending that kind of money, I expect some serious results.

All those that have the CP-e, come leave your stories, suggestions, comments and knowledge.

Thanks.

*Combined posts...

Another thing, the stock intake is more-or-less a cold air intake. How will putting the short air intake affect the car in the summer? I live in Texas and I can imagine it getting around 150 degrees under the hood there.

OH yeah, one more thing. The air filter, is that a standard size and a replacement can be purchased somewhere else?

I'm mostly interested becaues I'd love for my filter to be RED or black or something and not blue.
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Postby PXLpainter » Sat Mar 17, 2007 12:31 am

If you search a bit, you'll see that a couple folks have dyno tests that prove it... mine will be coming in shortly and I'll be comparing the Injen to the CP-e back-to-back.

As far as filter colors, etc. I would assume as long as it fits the intake dia any filter would work - BUT, don't know how airflow affects the tunable MAFci so maybe one of you "pros" out there can qualify this?

Same goes for adding CAI extensions as well - something I was considering doing down the line myself. ;)
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Postby Sebas007 » Sat Mar 17, 2007 5:45 am

^^^

I'm really interested in the results of this experience !! Let us know when you'll go there !!! Hope the tech will test it the same way (gun it on 3rd gear at the same start speed (around 85km/h or 52MPH) for all runs)...it should be since you're there, the same day, for all the runs. 3 runs with the Injen on...3 runs with the CP-e on... make the average on each side...get the results.



Filter colors...I know siennasc98 changed for a red one
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Ask him about it
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Postby crispone » Sat Mar 17, 2007 7:42 am

Frankly, with all the posts many of us have made on this topic... I'm almost annoyed at the question. :o

Tell you what, come by my house and let's flog our rides side by side and see who goes quicker... perhaps we'll just sit "neck-n-neck" but mine will be makin' alot more racket?


BWAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHhhhhh ha ha ha ha ha!!!


http://www.solaraguy.org/viewtopic.php? ... c&start=30


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Postby Down2TheC » Sat Mar 17, 2007 7:50 am

Haha... there is no filter color. The filter is white. The oil you spray on it is blue (if you get it from cp-e.) Not sure how the kits come since mine was installed by them.

Was it oiled when you got it Crisp?

For results, the tuning of the customizer does make a difference. For independant evidance, wait for PXLs reaction or read the reaction of Crisp the day he installed it. It's like it's not the same car.

With travel and speeding tickets and such, I spent >$500 on my proto and I've never regretted it.
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Postby crispone » Sat Mar 17, 2007 7:53 am

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There is your answer to "does it really make a difference".

Hard numbers, at the wheels. Trust me, you CAN feel a dozen HP or TQ number differenc on these cars...


Good luck with your choice...


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Postby crispone » Sat Mar 17, 2007 8:00 am

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There are some of the "parts" to the kit... and the end result. The filter WAS preoiled in my case... however, with a "K&N" degreaser/oiler kit... I suspect you could REUSE the CP-e kit filter, which is an "afe" brand element, and oil it RED if you wanted. For ME, the BLUE works out nicely on the cosmic blue of my car! :wink:


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Postby crispone » Sat Mar 17, 2007 8:03 am

^^^ BTW, I HIGHLY recommend buying the degreaser/filter oil KIT when you get the CP-e... as the filter DOES need reoiled periodically to keep the element moist. I JUST reoiled mine for the 2nd or 3rd time since installation... about once every 3,000 miles or so. (Driving patterns WILL affect the frequency of oiling... I "hammer" it pretty regularly... 8) )

As for the cost? I paid $601 total INLCUDING the oiling kit and the TUNEABLE option MAF, and I have ABSOLUTELY ZERO regrets, and absolutely zero reservations over recommending it to ANYONE.

Bottom line, the CP-e ROCKS!


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Postby Sebas007 » Sat Mar 17, 2007 8:17 am

^^^

Huh ?? You sure ?? :P

BWAAAHAHAHAHA !!

Yeah I was ironic...it rocks !! 8)
Last edited by Sebas007 on Tue Mar 20, 2007 12:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Sebas007 » Tue Mar 20, 2007 12:35 pm

CosmicGrooves, what are you planning to do about it ??
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Postby CosmicGrooves » Wed Mar 21, 2007 6:55 pm

Hmm... i'm really considering it. Should I go with the tunable version or the pre-set version? Under what conditions would I need to re-tune it? I would have no idea about how to tune it in the first place, but I don't konw why or when I would need to.

It's really sounding good... and I'm drooling thinking about it.

I guess there is red filter oil? Of course the color of the filter is not that important, but you know I'd like for it to match anyway.
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Postby CosmicGrooves » Wed Mar 21, 2007 7:23 pm

This is what I just found...

http://www.afefilters.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AFE&Product_Code=90-50002&Category_Code=C


Red oil for the filter by aFe! AND, the restore aerosol kit seems to be cheaper than from CP-e.
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Postby Sebas007 » Wed Mar 21, 2007 9:40 pm

Nice find for you !!

I think since there is no exhaust mods available (other then custom...) the pre-tuned is the best way to go. I got the tuneable version incase something magic happens and some exhaust mods fall from the sky. Tuneable version is also pre-tuned. But there is a connectors where you may connect a laptop...you can save your setup, load, modify with a included program. The tuning chart is RPM on Y axis and volts on X axis. Volts scaled from 0 to 5, it's the throttle position. So if you gunned it from 2000 RPM, your volts will indicat something around 5...but you may also go to 4000 RPM with a voltage of 3.5

Anyway, the tuned part of the chart is the lower right (high voltage, high RPM) It works in % on air/fuel in the mix. So -4.5 means that you take off 4.5% of voltage signal...you'll get leaner.

But again, you wouldn't have to go thru all this with the non-tunable module. It's 100$ more for this option...
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Postby crispone » Wed Mar 21, 2007 10:09 pm

DO IT.






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Postby Down2TheC » Thu Mar 22, 2007 4:31 am

No need for the tunable. Unless you have some serious dyno gear in your shed, you'll never want to be messing with the map. And you can always trade up if we ever get another part that effects the fuel map. (i.e. headers)

Only crisp could be driving down the road and decide "Hmmm, I'd like it a little leaner at 4500 rpm" They spent days finding the peak power for each band... I see no way of improving on the map.
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