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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Who have both HID (headlight + fog) ??
Talk about aftermarket Toyota Solara Gen 2 and 2.5 upgrades.

Who have both HID (headlight + fog) ??

Postby MikeATL » Tue Sep 12, 2006 6:26 am

made in china wrote:You are getting some bad info here. First, HIDs run cooler and draw less power...FACT. People ASSume that because they are brighter they MUST be using much more power. Not so.


FALSE.

Its true that the continuous draw is only 35w compared to 55w with halogens. HOWEVER, the inrush load (when the HIDs ignite) can be up to 13amps per ballast compared to 7 amps inrush.

Image

There is a reason car's that come with HIDs from the factory also use a harness.

See http://faqlight.carpassion.info/headlamp-harness.html for more info.
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Postby made in china » Wed Sep 13, 2006 8:22 pm

MikeATL wrote:
made in china wrote:You are getting some bad info here. First, HIDs run cooler and draw less power...FACT. People ASSume that because they are brighter they MUST be using much more power. Not so.


FALSE.

Its true that the continuous draw is only 35w compared to 55w with halogens. HOWEVER, the inrush load (when the HIDs ignite) can be up to 13amps per ballast compared to 7 amps inrush.

Image

There is a reason car's that come with HIDs from the factory also use a harness.

See http://faqlight.carpassion.info/headlamp-harness.html for more info.


Let me clarify my stand. Yes I know the initial turn on takes more current. The ballasts need to generate a very high voltage to initiate the arc, so at the moment of generating a arc, which is like milliseconds, the ballast will draw large current to generate high voltage. This is basic electronics knowledge. However, I doubt that the time base on the graph is accurate. Where does this graph come from?? Somebody using a multimeter and a stop watch to measure turn on current?? Or someone actually using a real time high response speed graph?? Or watching a oscilloscope?? Because if they were generating a graph from what they observed on their multimeter...you would need to remember that all multimeters have dwell. They can display peak current, but it takes the display a few moments to catch up to the real values as they quickly change.

I have had at least 4 cars with aftermarket HID kits. At least 2 of those cars have had a less than strong electrical system. I never noticed any pop or lights dimming when I would turn on my HID kits (I've always run without harness and relays) and they were wired directly to the headlight socket. In fact, pressing the brakes would cause the interior lights to dim momentarily....but the HIDs never did. I never saw any signs that these kits pull 13 amps a side......for a few seconds. Come on, most cars will have dimming interior lights or the such when they are hit with a sudden 26A pull.....RIGHT??

I would say that in most cases you could trace back damaged harness to the past use of high wattage colored bulbs until the owners finally switched to real HID. The original connectors were probably well cooked already...and yes then I would agree that after the HID kit is installed you'd eventually have a problem. Depends on the circumstances though...the problems might arise from the ballasts pulling more current than usual to make up for the voltage drop in the damaged connectors. Thats the nature of any electronics with a switching/boosting power supply. The current in goes up as the voltage in droops to maintain a steady output. :bday:

BTW, all cars have headlight harness....what did you mean by the last statement??
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Postby PXLpainter » Wed Sep 13, 2006 9:40 pm

Yeah - I know that I totally fried my OEM harness in the Tundra just by using some "White" Halogen bulbs that were a slightly higher wattage... I not only replaced the OEM wiring, but bought an additional Heavy Duty bypass harness that only used the OEM plugs to trigger the relays for the new setup. I was able to run my HID fogs from that setup as well... though it wasn't as necessary as the power draw from the Halogens.

Image

My point being, that you can easily fry your wiring with Halogen/Zenons much easier than you might with an HID setup. That's been my experience anyway.
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Postby MikeATL » Thu Sep 14, 2006 12:20 pm

made in china: I never said that no matter what, you would melt your electrical system without a harness. There are exceptions to every rule.

Its actually funny that i'm arguing this point, I run HIDs without a harness.

It is a fact though that HIDs do draw more amps, even if its only for a split second, than halogens.

PS-That graph is from http://faqlight.carpassion.info
That is a very well known site about HIDs, HID kits, and retro fits.
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Postby ---CAMRAZY--- » Thu Dec 14, 2006 12:56 am

alan8888 wrote:No picture......my digi camera is broken .....i have the sc430 projector as well

:evil:


It has been a few months..... any pics yet?
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Postby PXLpainter » Thu Dec 14, 2006 1:05 am

Damn - when I see pics of my truck, I really start to miss it... especially this time of year. This will be my first Christmas without it since 2001. :( *sniff*
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Postby kpxboi0619 » Thu Dec 14, 2006 10:54 am

oh the bulb replacement guide in this site says
9145 (H10)
so it means I can put H10 for my fog right?
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Postby gone » Thu Dec 14, 2006 11:04 am

i didnt know there was so many issues about HID's in fogs. I just ordered a set for my fogs and wondering where to put the ballast.
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Postby gasolara2002 » Thu Dec 14, 2006 4:56 pm

i think this will help here is my car it is 6000k in the headlights and the foglights and headlights.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2398488/1
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Postby funboy102 » Thu Dec 14, 2006 6:20 pm

yeah man, installing HID is easy, it's not a big deal, do the same thing you did for your headlights, but for your foglights.
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