SolaraGuy.com

trd4life wrote:yeah it wouldnt hurt to change the idlers i have had issues with them for sure.

Different application than the Solara, but I have also seen idlers "spin freely" and seem "fine" upon inspection, but under LOADED conditions, fail to perform ideally... even showing some "grinding" or "squealing" resistance.

On another note, I've had belts (alternator/water pump/crank/PS) where being WORN and/or LOOSE has caused a whine (slippage) and TIGHTENING the belt alleviated the condition in one case, and replacing AND re-tightening to spec. tension alleviated it in another case. (All NON-Solara experiences... but reference, nontheless.)


G/L with your endeavors, and WIN for more power!


EDIT: Also, you've got me wondering... with the increased psi from the larger pulley, doesn't the SC "spin higher rpm's" relative the motor rpm's from before, possibly contributing to the increased "pitch/whine" that you hear? (I'm suspecting the dynamics are different from a turbo, where it's relative wastegate relief pressure point for boost increases... but then again, I'm not knowledgeable about SC's at ALL!) Ultimately, I'm also assuming higher peak rpm's for the SC from this pulley change as well... is that accurate?


-crisp

crisp, the SC rotating quicker at idle due to the smaller pulley could be true. The noise is coming from the middle of the SC...I also noticed a little more valve/lifter noise. I'm gonna run some sea foam through the brake booster vac line and see if that clears some of it up. Also gonna take a closer look at the exhaust for any leaks.

Found a minor exhaust leak...egr tube on obx headers broke again. Sea foam helped the engine noise immensely! I may just replace the idlers and tensioners anyways. Were making a little progress. I loosened the belt a little but notice some slipping before the belt warms up. Once the belt warms up there is no slipping and it immediately hits 6.5 psi!

Be sure and check the rear motor mount, it might be loose or broken. They are known to take out the egr tube to the headers.

^^ that's a new, how would the rear motor mount do that?

hskrsolara wrote:Found a minor exhaust leak...egr tube on obx headers broke again. Sea foam helped the engine noise immensely! I may just replace the idlers and tensioners anyways. Were making a little progress. I loosened the belt a little but notice some slipping before the belt warms up. Once the belt warms up there is no slipping and it immediately hits 6.5 psi!

was wanting to run the seafoam through my set-up but wasnt sure if it would cause problems w/ the charger.
you just ran it like normal (brake booster) & had no issues?

Yeah, brake booster vac line. Worked well and seemed to quiet down some of the head noise. Keep one hand on the throttle cause the engine will stall when it sucks in the sea foam. Lots of smoke, must have cleaned it up well.

Gregtrd wrote:^^ that's a new, how would the rear motor mount do that?

The small tube that goes from the egr cooler to the header does not really have all that much flex built into it. The header itself, because of the larger size tubing does not break like the small tubing on that pipe. When I was running super rich I couldn't figure out why. The cause was that small tube being broke. It caused a lean condition to the o2 sensor thus the ecu dumped more fuel in. When JPP replaced it for free, they told me that they have seen that before.

You're right on that jpp egr tube breaking. My jpp egr tube broke several times before deleting it, and I have solid motor mounts. I've Worked with several jpp header set up back in the day and the egr tube were always broken, obx I have yet to see one broken.

MY EGR PIPE BROKE OFF ON MY OLD OBX HEADERS AS WELL AS CRACKED ON THE FRONT HEADER AT THE WELDS. GOT XERD HEADERS NOW JUST WAITING TO COME BACK FROM CERAMIC COATING