The purpose of a turbo timer is superfluous in all applications... conditional on your behavior with your vehicle.
All you are doing with a turbo timer or remote/timer "idle-out", is exhibiting your "laziness" and "inability" to properly "spool down" your turbo or ANY vehicle for that matter after either HARD DRIVING, or otherwise HOT ENGINE and/or HOT TURBO temperatures. The killer in a turbo car is the "HEAT SINK" that is residually present in a HOT turbocharger... one that has not been allowed to "cool down" from it's HIGH RPM state, which is ANY time you are driving, even if you are not "on it hard". (Of course, the degree of heat is LESS under normal driving conditions, and not likely to cause major harm if the car is shut down "right away" after driving... but after HARDER or more SPIRITED driving, the temperatures can be not only extreme, but downright DESTRUCTIVE to oil and components. (I've SEEN mine glow red briefly after some hard-charging 16psi bursts... of course, I let it spool-down and idle for some length before shut-down) The purpose of IDLING your vehicle after "parking" is to let the oil continue to circulate through the turbo housing and COOL down the components of the turbo by disipating heat until an "acceptable" temperature is reached... trust me, the TURBO is still HOT. If you do not allow the turbo to "IDLE DOWN" in this way, you can risk COKING your oil, or "COOKING" it, wherein it breaks down and "gums up" on your turbo innards... or otherwise obstructs the oil flow within the turbo. (Although many synthetics are MUCH MORE resistant to this phenomenon than organic oils...) Great way to damage your turbo.
My point:
You don't NEED a timer or idle-out remote setup... you just have to complete your drive under LOW LOAD or MELLOW DRIVING conditions for the last few miles or minutes, (depending on how hard and hot you HAD been driving...), and/or when you arrive and park, just SIT in the car for a minute or two (or three...) and let the car and turbo idle-down. (I have done this for over 10 years, with NO oil/turbo related failures of issues...) I have found that this couple minutes is an opportunity to "take inventory" in the cockpit... shut off various devices, check NOS arming circuits... run through a crisplist of checks related to EGT (exhaust gas temp - which I allow to cool to 800 degrees before shutdown, as it is taking temp. at the turbo outlet downtube elbow, and reflects "heat-sink" dissipation in the turbo core as well...), oil pressure, idle level, independent fog switch off, stereo system attenuated, heater off, EVC (Electronic Valve Controller - boost) dialed to my desired start-up setting, HKS TEMS IC controller reset to "auto" mode... Bearcat Scanner State and HP channels reset... etc, etc... HEY, what do you know... car is cool now and ready to exit.
The "ritual" becomes second nature, and provides a calculated opportunity to really "know" my car after every drive. Actually, I repeat a similar routine with the vehicle as part of my "start-up/warm-up" procedure. I NEVER hop in a cold car and put it in drive... my rule of thumb being, "when the temp gage BEGINS to move, you can place some load on the motor"...
That concludes crispcooling disertation dimentia 101 for today...
-crisp
