Dyno Results with JP Performance Headers & Exhaust, Fuel

[Hsakuragi]

[/quote]

Nothing is for free. I didn't mean to suggest that the installation of the injectors of O2 sensor was free. Those definitely had some cost associated with them. I only posted the cost of the headers and installation since that's what I thought you were looking for.

Jim hardly did the installation of the heads for free. That was almost a $2000 job, in addition to the cost of the heads, themselves. That included a few extra things, like replacement of a knock sensor and switching intakes. The cost of the job would be a little less if he just did a straight installation. Still, his hourly rate is less than what people generally charge in the Bay Area, so I thought it was worth the drive, especially since the Pacific NW is such a beautiful place in the summer.

[/quote]

Well it's because of after the first attempt to install the header was not successful due to the EGR tube difference, i just want to make sure that i got all the parts i need before the 2nd time to install the headers and in order to make the car running right, cuz it's not fun wasting 2 hours taking everything out, found out it doesn't fit, then put everything back on.

Actually i was looking for the price for the fuel injectors and the fuel pump.

[cdssolara]

The injectors are about $175 apiece if you get them new from Toyota. I got mine from a wrecked car, so they were a lot cheaper. The fuel pump was a Walbro, but it was designed for an older Mustang, not a Camry or Solara. I don't have the part number with me right now, but I'll post it up later when I can get hold of it. It was around $85.

[Hsakuragi]

Seems i know what you talking about, it was from the other forum.

Great. Thanks!

[Eric]

The rear knock sensor on supercharged V6 cars does not funtion correctly and will always sene a false and premature detonation signal to the ECU causing the limp mode and check engine lights. This information was given to me by TRD directly, as that is where I had the supercharge installed in my 99 Solara. At the very least it always causes the timing to retard prematurely and kills alot of the power on the bottom end.

The false signal is caused by mechanical resonance in the supercharger itself. The knock sensors are nothing more than a piezo microphone of sorts that listen for high frequency energy that signals detonation. Pre-ignition is knocking and detonation is a high frequency ping. The frequency energy of the supercharger set off the knock sensor.

I completed the modification that was suggested and the cars drivability improved dramatically and no more check engine lights. I was constantly disconnecting the battery to reset the ECU to original settings to get my power back.

The fix: Thee are two knock sensor inputs on the ECU one for the front sensor and one for the rear sensor. Connect the output of the front knock sensor to both inputs on the ECU. This takes about a whopping 20 minutes to complete.

Another modofication that improves drivability is to replace the thermostat with a 160 degree aftermarket thermostat. This fakes the ECU into thinking the car is still no fully warmed up and it give you a richer mixture improving driveability and reduces possability of detonation.

[cdssolara]

Eric, that's really good information. I've discussed this possibility with some other s/c Solara owners, and I've read some posts by others who've done exactly what you recommend. This is the first time that I've heard TRD or anyone affiliated with Toyota admit that the supercharger produces a resonance that can fool the knock sensors. It's always been suspected that the rear bank sensor was the weak link.

I'm currently getting both codes 0325 and 0330, which means that both sensors are tripping the check engine light. Since I have a smaller pulley than stock, I may be getting more s/c whine. Also, I have an aftermarket fuel pump whose electric motor makes additional noise. I'm wondering if that may be exacerbating the situation. I'm now thinking about relocating both sensors.

By the way, what boost were you running when you did this fix? Again, thanks for sharing this bit of news from TRD.

[shidosha01]

Eric, that's really good information. I've discussed this possibility with some other s/c Solara owners, and I've read some posts by others who've done exactly what you recommend. This is the first time that I've heard TRD or anyone affiliated with Toyota admit that the supercharger produces a resonance that can fool the knock sensors. It's always been suspected that the rear bank sensor was the weak link.

I'm currently getting both codes 0325 and 0330, which means that both sensors are tripping the check engine light. Since I have a smaller pulley than stock, I may be getting more s/c whine. Also, I have an aftermarket fuel pump whose electric motor makes additional noise. I'm wondering if that may be exacerbating the situation. I'm now thinking about relocating both sensors.

By the way, what boost were you running when you did this fix? Again, thanks for sharing this bit of news from TRD.

Yeah great info! Cdssolara....How are you going to relocate your knock sensors?

[Ragtop George]

Eric;

Great info, thanks! Can you give us a bit more detail on where the wires to the sensors are located, what color they are, etc?

Thanks again;

George

[cdssolara]

Eric, that's really good information. I've discussed this possibility with some other s/c Solara owners, and I've read some posts by others who've done exactly what you recommend. This is the first time that I've heard TRD or anyone affiliated with Toyota admit that the supercharger produces a resonance that can fool the knock sensors. It's always been suspected that the rear bank sensor was the weak link.

I'm currently getting both codes 0325 and 0330, which means that both sensors are tripping the check engine light. Since I have a smaller pulley than stock, I may be getting more s/c whine. Also, I have an aftermarket fuel pump whose electric motor makes additional noise. I'm wondering if that may be exacerbating the situation. I'm now thinking about relocating both sensors.

By the way, what boost were you running when you did this fix? Again, thanks for sharing this bit of news from TRD.

Yeah great info! Cdssolara....How are you going to relocate your knock sensors?

I'm not exactly sure yet. I've exchanged some e-mails with people who have done it, and I'm waiting to hear from a couple more. As soon as I decide which way sounds the most reasonable, without compromising the sensors' function too much, I'll do it and let you know how it works.

[Eric]

I was running a non stock pulley, according to TRD it was good fro a max of 7 lbs of boost. Without a 7 th injector or larger than the stock 220 cc injectors they do not recommend running anything higher than 7 lbs boost. They call this the high altitude pulley.

Maximum without other mods is supposedly about 10 lbs because of excessive backpressure from the factory headers down pipes etc. With a split second fuel controller and boost regulated fuel pressure regulator tha will increase pressure as boost increases 330 cc injectors and a modified exhause you can supposedly run 12 psi with reliability as long as you dont go into detonation.

I got the wiring information for the ECU from a local Toyota dealership, They printed it out for me from the Toyota technical website. Sorry I didnt keep the info. The ECU is located under the carpet in the passengers side footwell.

[Eric]

I'm not exactly sure yet. I've exchanged some e-mails with people who have done it, and I'm waiting to hear from a couple more. As soon as I decide which way sounds the most reasonable, without compromising the sensors' function too much, I'll do it and let you know how it works.[/quote]

BTW I have driven this car like this for 60000 miles and no problems.

The front knock sensor still protects the motor according to my contact at TRD that suggested the mod.