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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - hood venting experiment and results
For those looking for more speed through force. Forced Induction; Supercharger,Turbocharger or Nitrous discussion and maintenance.

hood venting experiment and results

Postby hskrsolara » Mon Jun 30, 2008 3:03 pm

^^you sure the red isn't from the dynamic tensioner?
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Postby bigbirdSCed » Mon Jun 30, 2008 3:15 pm

i have no idea what its from, there nothing on the tensoner to suggest it would be from tha though. its the first belt ive seen witha red stripe down the center. but it will be replaced reguardless.
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Postby Eye8Pussies » Tue Jul 01, 2008 4:53 pm

interesting results like you said earlier.....and perhaps worth a try by all of us.

that hood cowl idea is pretty good and would add to the look for sure!
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Postby YESCA » Fri Jul 18, 2008 2:01 pm

A Water/Methanol Injection System is the best way to keep the S/C cool.

But our S/C do not put out enough heat to make any sence in getting one.
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Postby Dawgz » Fri Jul 18, 2008 2:12 pm

YESCA wrote:A Water/Methanol Injection System is the best way to keep the S/C cool.

But our S/C do not put out enough heat to make any sence in getting one.



when air is compressed, it heats up ALOT. and ur sc is just that...a compressor. So the intake temps that the maf is reading is actually far cooler than whats actually being fed into the valves.


and as for the methanol kit..i dont see how thats a logical substitute since water or any liquid for that matter as far as i know does not compress. I think it would only be hurting the sc roots.
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Postby gnegroni » Fri Jul 18, 2008 6:20 pm

Cowls have been used in the past as a method of passive induction similar to ram air to add HP. Some sites mention it creates vacuum which sucks air out, others say high pressure cool air area which cars used to suck cool air from. Even if we don't use it as an induction method, your theory is proven. I'd say go for it (It can't hurt, that is for sure).
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Postby panic » Fri Aug 22, 2008 1:49 pm

RE: "on most cars, assuming the camry is no different, there is a pocket of low pressure air that sits at the base of the windsheild"

Most cars will have light positive pressure at the W/S base, which is why the fresh air grill is located there to feed the heater & A/C system without using a fan.

What you were getting was high pressure being fed by higher pressure (air under the car purging the hot air from the engine & radiator). It will always work as long as there is a pressure differential, doesn't matter if both are negative, both are positive etc. - the higher one feeds the lower. Only the rate of air movement will vary.
That's also the original reason for hood louvers and fender vents - the hot air has somewhere to go.

I'm not sure whether the temp reduction is linear at your air intake, which is what affects power.
Not my strong field, but I think the MAF located at the TB (ahead of the blower) isn't reading air temp accurately because the blower exhaust temp may be several hundred degrees higher than the inlet temp (depending on boost).

Let's assume an Eaton type is 75% efficient (better than a GMC, not as good as a turbo or Pro Charger), boost is 7 psi, intake air is 80°.
The compressed air entering the engine is about 169°.

If the air inlet temp is raised to 150°, the compressor discharge temp rises to 251°.

More boost: 10 psi, ambient air is 80°
The compressed air is about 200°.
150° inlet: 286°.
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Postby bigbirdSCed » Thu Sep 04, 2008 3:26 pm

when i say low pressure it was in relation to the air moving over other parts of the front end and under the car, may even be using the wrong word here. pressure may not be what i mean.

also i didnt use any of the cars on board temp sensors if thats what you were thinkin, it was a seperate remote thermometer not wired to the car in any way. just drapped over the SC in the area in question.

reguardless, this expereiment wanst really to change the temp of the air goin into the charger if thats what you were refering to, just to cool the air around the charger which it does, whether that helps the charger im not sure but heat kills and even if it helps a little then its worth it. this did not test induction temps.

i appologise if im missing the point completly here, i am far from knowledgable when it comes to things like thermodynamics.
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Postby JavaJoe_2 » Fri Sep 05, 2008 7:47 pm

panic wrote:150° inlet:



@ the maf?
Mine usually reads 10 above outside temp.
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