what kinda hp increase?

by **Wang2k** » Mon Jul 17, 2006 2:11 pm

f that just add 2 across the entire map close enough

by **Wang2k** » Mon Jul 17, 2006 2:12 pm

well on second thought, it seems like an easy program, so they can figure it out fast...dont let them screw you is the point im getting at

by **Wang2k** » Mon Jul 17, 2006 2:14 pm

i called shops around my area they never heard of split second... they are a huge company

by **shocar4** » Mon Jul 17, 2006 2:17 pm

i read in the manual that they recommend you have a scan tool and a wideband.....can i still mess with it or should i leave it to the pros.....for about one hour...haha!

by **SC V6** » Mon Jul 17, 2006 2:36 pm

This type of thing is "play at your own risk"

by **Hsakuragi** » Mon Jul 17, 2006 2:45 pm

shocar4 wrote:
Hsakuragi wrote:i'll say 205-215whp with 5.5 since u have 5 spd
that sounds low for all the mods that i have...i guess the dyno will tell all!

make sure they use dyno jet.

all your "mods" that you stated are not really "power effective" mods, they all just help ur car to avoid running lean.

Y i knew the approx number? I dynoed mine with auto 5.5 w/safc and greddy - only get 200.

Like SC V6 and trd4life says, without headers and y pipe, you will not see any BIG numbers with the current mods you have, it's not cheap to mod the laras. Hope these can help you out. Good luck dude!

by **shocar4** » Mon Jul 17, 2006 5:43 pm

really then what good is it to have a fuel timing calibration like ssftc if you still have to take it to get dyno tuned?

by **Wang2k** » Mon Jul 17, 2006 6:22 pm

um because the FTC just gives you the ability to change your settings...the dyno is nothing without the piggyback...you cant just take your car to a dyno and get the stock computer tuned.

by **shocar4** » Mon Jul 17, 2006 7:19 pm

makes sense!

by **Fletch** » Tue Jul 18, 2006 5:27 am

I'm with the others, if you can afford the JPP set-up and plan on keeping the Solara for a while, just get it right away. If not, a shop should be able to bend and install a y-pipe for around $250.

by **shocar4** » Tue Jul 18, 2006 5:52 am

Fletch wrote:I'm with the others, if you can afford the JPP set-up and plan on keeping the Solara for a while, just get it right away. If not, a shop should be able to bend and install a y-pipe for around $250.

what kind of fuel management system did you have? your were running 5.5 it looks like!

by **Charles@Automotion** » Tue Jul 18, 2006 6:04 am

Hsakuragi wrote:
shocar4 wrote:
Hsakuragi wrote:i'll say 205-215whp with 5.5 since u have 5 spd
that sounds low for all the mods that i have...i guess the dyno will tell all!

make sure they use dyno jet.

all your "mods" that you stated are not really "power effective" mods, they all just help ur car to avoid running lean.

Y i knew the approx number? I dynoed mine with auto 5.5 w/safc and greddy - only get 200.

Like SC V6 and trd4life says, without headers and y pipe, you will not see any BIG numbers with the current mods you have, it's not cheap to mod the laras. Hope these can help you out. Good luck dude!

Dynojets are not the greatest dyno's for tuning FI cars. You can get by with them as long as you confirm your tune on the street, but you should try to go to a place that has a load bearing dyno for your tune. Some dynojets (although all to few) have the eddy braking system that will allow them to load the car up, but its not quite as effective in my eyes. A Mustang or DynoDynamics would be a better choice, imo.

The Split Second software is fairly straight forward from a tuning stand point. When I get a tuning appointment here I always ask what software is being used, and if its something that I am not familiar with, I ask the customer to bring me a copy of the software in advance so I can check it out BEFORE putting their car on the dyno.

The basics of tuning are generally all the same, and learning each different interface is where it really becomes tricky. I'd rather take a hour or two in advance to at least look it over before I put the life of someones engine in my hands.

Charles

by **Akfahad** » Tue Jul 18, 2006 7:45 am

^^^ Now that's good, reputable business!!

As far as they Y-pipe and headers go, you can wait if you want. Of course it'll help, but since you already have the new pulley on and you already have an appointment...just wait and see if you can grab one later. Of course, when and if you do get headers/Y-pipe, you'll have to re-tune to get a proper setting. Just keep that in mind.

I got my car dyno'd and I'm still on my stock headers and stock Y-pipe. The Y-pipe I'll change in about two months or so. The headers I'm willing to wait to see what happens, $1600 is just too much for me right now.

by **JavaJoe_2** » Tue Jul 18, 2006 8:21 pm

Akfahad wrote:^^^ $1600 is just too much for me right now.

Try $2149

with shipping....mine are being built right now!

by **Fletch** » Wed Jul 19, 2006 3:24 am

what kind of fuel management system did you have? your were running 5.5 it looks like!

I just put the 2.9" pulley on without any supporting a/f mods. It ran like a raped ape but I had knock sensor issue in the first 1/2 hour. I wired it so the front knock sensor was feeding both ECU inputs. It basically worked, that is I never went into limp mode again. Later I got Jim's fuel line for some insurance. Never had an a/f module, but if I did it again I would.

what kinda hp increase?

Who is online