Normally aspirated cars run at some number of inches of vacuum (inHg) even under full load. Some very efficient engines have reported at or close to 0psi. When you get into boosted applications like the turbos and superchargers, a little oil through there is not uncommon. That's why we have oil catch cans.
Initially, I had noticed very small amounts of oil in that hose that goes from the valve cover to the intake. Just enough you can feel a very light oil texture. Then recently my car wouldn't run well at cold idle. Immediately suspecting the MAF, I pulled it apart and noticed drops of oil collected around couplings and the MAF was coated too. There was oil dripping out of the MAF. I cleaned it all up and she ran great again. That's when I decided to check the compression. I think this is somewhat similar to Greg's experience (Greg?). One difference for Greg was that day stomping it at the light then the next light big trouble.
I know checking the compression is not the most accurate when cold but the philosophy is, there should be very little difference between cylinders whether they're cold or hot. Since it is a LOT easier to work on cold, that's what I did
. Sure the actual numbers will change a little with the engine warm but they will change proportionally. With 1 cylinder running at 190psi and 1 running at 110psi, that spells BIG trouble.
With oil on #2 plug, my guess is loss of both rings in that cylinder. #4 just had a loss of compression but no oil so I'm guessing just the compression ring. Who knows about the back, too hard to get to. With 1 bad cylinder, it's time for my baby to get what she
REALLY wanted all along!
I don't expect to get cracked pistons out of there. My guess is just the ring lands. After all, she's still running 14.2 at the track consistantly. -JoeB
I will eventually do it ... perhaps early 2007.
. Dont you think that might be a tad excessive? 