SolaraGuy.com

Right now I am very pissed. I dynoed my car last weekend (i'll post more info in another thread, but i only put down 195FWHP and 175tq). Driving home from the dyno i got a CEL. I scanned the code and it was P0330 - bank 2 knock sensor

I have the TRD supercharger at 4psi
Denso iridium ik22

Because i blew the knock sensor at the dyno, i'm am sure of my A/F ratio. It started at around 12.5 and went as low as 11:1 at like 5500rpm.

My car is out of the 3yr/36k mile warranty so the knock sensors aren't covered anymore but i think its absolutely rediculous that it blew. I wasn't running lean.

The car is noticably sluggish at high rpms and on the highway. I'm going to do the rewire trick but still i am very dissappointed in toyota

-Just my little rant

There was a huge thread about this when i first got on the board. I thought this was pretty common with s/c solaras.

I think somebody posted something about using GM knock sensors and theres an adapter that some mr2 guys made.

I know that its common to blow knock sensors but that is usally at higher boost with crappy gas.

I am at 4psi with 93 octane gas.

Yanks0114 wrote:I know that its common to blow knock sensors but that is usally at higher boost with crappy gas.

I am at 4psi with 93 octane gas.

Alot of people seemed to have the problem for no reason. Somebody actually said they blew one just by being next to a harly that was reving it's engine. Our knock sensors are terrible.

i blew my knock sensor on 4psi 93 gas a week after i got the s/c
installed.i took it back to toyota and the said the knock senor was fine.and then i called again and they wanted $900 for parts and labor...

http://www.twosrus.com/new/Lower_Frames ... sknock.htm

This was posted in the old thread, has anyone here tried this? And if so did it work?

I feel you I blew mine running 92 gas and 4psi with over +10 settings on my SAFC II. I think the factory knock sensors just suck crap, I did the re-wire and just left it alone cause I know I'm not running lean.

now this may be a stupid question.... i know most the v6 guys have blown knock sensors with s/c and stuff about running to lean, but do the i-4 engines have a knock sensors???

for both the 5s-fe and the 2az-fe???

i know the 5sfe has 1 knock sensors but i dunno about the 2az

every engine has knock sensors. Well any engine made since they came out.

and yes we ahve very weak knock sensors, that link should fix the problem but i dont know if anyone actually has done it.

As some people have said, the knock sensors are very sensitive. Just the sound of the supercharger has set them off in some cases. Dyno runs are pretty hard on the car. Many people, myself included, have had them go during dyno runs. I also had one malfunction when a Harley revved next to me at a stop light. I have had a lot of experience with this situation, and I finally solved it by having it rewired.

yanks, after going through some extensive studying of this topic, both ThaKidd and myself. The knock sensor rewire from Twos R Us. Will only work if you are willing to relocate the knock sensors themselves. We do have 2 shipping mounts on the front of the block that will work, but you need to tap the holes for proper sizing and thread.

Do you have Jim's Fuel Upgrade????? I know about 6 or 7 of us have done this mod. I havent had a single issue with my knocks after that. He had done alot of testing and realized that the front bank runs about 27% lean under load. I beleive thats the right number.

Best 200.00 i spent so far.

wortown, can you explain this better. I though that it was just a simple rewire trick?

Wortown's post is a little unclear, but he's addressing the right things. There are two issues going on with the knock sensor malfunctions; one for each sensor. The #2 sensor goes out first, usually due to a lean condition. Many times, you can remedy this by getting more fuel in your mixture by using S-AFC or similar equipment, and sometimes in conjunction with bigger injectors and fuel pump. Even then, some people have gone lean. Jim@FA discovered that, under load, his car sent more fuel to the rear bank of cylinders (#1) than it did to the front bank. He developed a fuel delivery mod that addressed this problem, and it seems to have worked for people who have used it.

Once fuel issues are addressed, some people, including me, have continued to have problems with the #1 sensor. In this case, there doesn't seem to be a real problem; it's just that the #1 sensor picks up noise from other sources (supercharger, intake, etc.) and interprets them as knock. The solution to this problem has been to either relocate the sensor(s) or rewire the #1 sensor input to the ECU to the #2 sensor. The rewire solution has worked in my case.

To further complicate things, not all cars have the same problem. My car never had the problem with the #2 bank that Jim's car had, and other people haven't had the problem that I had with the #1 sensor.

From what you've described, you should probably look into Jim's fuel mod. If he hasn't posted a description here, you can probably find it on camryman.org. If that solves your problem, hopefully you won't have #1 sensor issues. If you do, you can then look into the relocation/rewire thing.

I hope that made sense.

30 minutes after I installed the 5.5 psi pulley, the car went into limp mode. Reset the code and soon after it went off again. I'm pretty sure the front bank (#2 sensor) is blown and I've been running off the rear (#1) to both ECU inputs for more than a year now.

Did Jim's fuel mod retroactively.