SolaraGuy.com

If I am looking for a fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump for my s/c v6 auto solara, anyone have any suggestions?

i have a walbro hi flow fuel 255lt/hr pump, PM me.

You realize that our fuel system is returnless, so you are going to have to do a bit of modifying to get the FPR to fit.

-xtychx

What do you mean by "returnless"? Do you mean that once you put the FPR in that you wont be able to go back to stock?

I also did some searching and found this topic talked about alot by Ultraslow, Got TRD and JoeB back in November. They never named a model but I talked with a tech at work and highly suggested the AEM Boost sensitive F.P.R..Anyone has any thoughts on that and how I could have it installed so that if I wanted it removed (back to stock) I could?

I just purchased a 190lph walbro from URD...sorry...the 255 is too much for me...have to take some time before changing injectors.

I think my s/c isn't getting enough fuel...do I go w/ better fuel pressure regulator now too or will the pump solve it? It idles rough and sucks air in staggers. I've been told it could be a weak fuel pump or possibly a bad 02 sensor, so I bought the 190lph pump anyhow...figured the s/c needed it. Anyone run into this before?

grnsolara, Fuel pressure regulator is what you need now man. See when you step on the gas the Solara ecu trys to gets max fuel economy and emissions (wahtever) at low rpms. Mine does the same thing. Tell me what your pump does though, im interested in how itll work.

your fuel pressure regulator is in the fuel tank.

returnless fuel system means that you DONT have fuel return line on your fuel rail, it delivered exactly rightr amount of fuel onto the fuel rail. so it means there is no way you can just add a fuel pressure regulator unless you add a fuel return line.

GrnSolara: If you have same set up as other people, it could be that you are having some other trouble on your car. I would suggest you check all the vacum line and host. Clean out throttle body, change spark plug and see how it act.

if you are running stock boost, maybe you can fix it with add a fuel management system such as split second, SAFC2, emanage..etc

jim foreignaffair is offering larger fuel upgrade kit that consist larger fuel lines and larger fuel filter. maybe you can go from there

Thanks for the info all of you. I'm kinda new at the modifyin', so all I really know how to do is read and reason

I bought the universal TRD fuel pressure regulator and the pump. One of my friends suggested the 02 sensor, so I bought a denso replacement for the rear of the cat, but it's probably the other sensor up front. However, I don't know where I can find that 02 sensor for a decent price.

As for the other stuff...I had the Toyota dealership check all the vacuum lines and check for leaks at the manifolds. They say that everything is okay on their end. The ECU has been modified by JET which is supposed to deliver more fuel (according to JET). The plugs only have like 4,000 miles on them (NGK iridium IX). I've got TRD telling me "Go back to stock airbox and stock ECU." I'm just kinda confused. My car is fine when it's started up and idles at about 1,000 rpm's. However, lately it's been dropping as low as 300 rpm's!!! Now I'm worried and haven't been driving it until the FPR and pump arrive.

However, that fuel upgrade package from Jim sound like a kickass idea, but I'm tryin' to pace myself a little on funds because I probably need to upgrade the injectors now to RC Engineering. Anyone know what CC to go with??? All input is always appreciated. Thanks.

just because TRD has something out does not mean its made for the solara or 1mzfe engine.

the FPR must be for another platform.

TRDMole is right, that FPR will not be for our car, we don't have a return line. I installed the fuel line upgrade kit from Jim@ForeignAffairs. It's a very good kit with high quality parts. If you are holding off on that due to funds, you should do the fuel pressure regulator modification. This actually cam from another member that I haven't seen post for a very long time. Jim posted the information about it on CMPL.

Basically, you pull the fuel sending unit out of the tank. Take the regulator off (small brass can with a whole on 1 end and flat side on the other). The desired result is to increase it to 59psi. To modify it, you need to take something small, I used the head of a 1/4" ratchet (the part the socket clips onto) and put it against the hole in the regulator. Crush it in the vise in small increments. To tell when you are at 59psi, you need to take a compressor and blow into that hole until it leaks out at 59psi. It's a free mod and helped equalize the fuel delivery between the front and rear rails for me.

If you have an OBD2 scanner that reads short term and long term fuel trims from the ECU for bank 1 and 2, take a reading once, you'll be shocked! My 2 rails were running almost 5% apart on average. Sometimes more. The regulator mod took care of most of it, Jim's fuel lines and filter took care of the rest.

The 190lph pump is probably fine, the 255lph that TRDMole has is nice too. URD sells 318cc injectors that are sized well for around 6psi boost. If you are shooting for more boost than that, you should consider bottom end work, lowering the compression a little, larger injectors, a larger pump and a return line with regulator. Yes, lots of work and money. -JoeB

So is the FPR useless then? b/c TRD said modifications had to be made, but it had directions for it. I dunno...hope I didn't make a bad move, but what you guys are sayin' definitely makes sense. I'm goin' to try to find a stock airbox to see if maybe that solves anything too.

To be honest, it is hard to say for cetain if it will be useless without knowing exactly what they sold you. Do you have a link to a web site that has the part with info? If it mounts in the tank with the current sending unit and is somehow adjustable, you might be ok. Most that I've seen are external regulators and that would imply getting return flow from the fuel rail. -JoeB

I think the JET ecu is mess up, thats the only possible reason i can think of so far. Or you should have dyno it and the tunner should explain everything to you according to your dyno result.

If i were you, i will swap parts and experiment with it alittle bit. such as try to put back stock air box and reset the computer, and see what happen. or try to swap the ECU.....such such. dealer and TRD work most likely will not know what's happen on your car either because you are using parts that they are not familiar with.

good luck

the majority of the people who work at TRD are full of air inside their heads.

TRDMole177 wrote:the majority of the people who work at TRD are full of air inside their heads.

you mean those reception worker?