Performance test without a dyno?

[RON]

Dyno testing..especially for SC cars above 4lbs...can easily result in a ECL on the knock sensors..even BLOW them. Not to mention the time and cost. I'm not suggesting that you avoid a DYNO, but if you have recently made a performance mod and want to see if it went to the *bottom line*, here's a little road test you can perform. I have found it VERY reliable and useful. This must be done BEFORE and AFTER the mod!

You will need a HAND HELD STOP WATCH. In COOL weather (ie, at night), take the car out on a familiar LEVEL road. For 5 speeds, in THIRD GEAR take it to 3000RPM and FLOOR IT. Once you hit 4000 RPM hit the watch....take it to 6000RPM and hit it again. Note the time for 2-3 trials. For AT guys, just floor it at 50 MPH and hit the watch from 60-90. If your MOD was a good one, you should see at least a .3 sec improvement (about 10-15 HP). 1 sec is *around* 30-40 HP. Also, as a rule, this time interval is very close to a WELL RUN 0-60 time (which most of us are unable to execute).

Prior to my SC, my STOCK V6 5 speed did this in 7.5 sec. After the SC stock, it did this in 6.3 sec. At that time I dynoed the car at 223 WHP...around a 40 HP gain. After the 5.5 lb pulley..WITH Y pipe and CAT back added I was hitting 5.2 sec on the test (equivalent to another 40 HP). I dynoed the car then and got 261WHP. You do the math on the test.

All this is from PERSONAL experience..take it for what it's worth.

[fzzyrn]

or you could just use a butt dyno.

[SpeedySolara]

Interesting

[GzNutz]

That is pretty cool.

[gnegroni]

You didn't mention any gear for the manual test cars. 2nd gear from 3000 to 6000rpm means from 30-60mph approx. In third it would end around 90mph.

Which one is it?

[RON]

>>You didn't mention any gear for the manual test cars. 2nd gear from 3000 to 6000rpm means from 30-60mph approx. In third it would end around 90mph. <<

You are correct, it's 3RD gear. I edited post. Thank you.

[Dawgz]

This test wont have any face value, to compare it to other cars or even ur own (before the mod).

Too many factors change, when you do this by hand. U need some constant factors, which can either be replicated on a dyno, or on the drag strip. And even then, on the drag strip, ur reaction time factors in.

So u can have the same setup, but better numbers, just because u reacted quicker.

U get what im talking about here?

[Mr_Chunkz]

hey ron
i burned three pairs of knock sensors when i went 5.5 psi

if you are afraid of knock sensor blow run an ATS Racing knock sensor kit with GM knock sensor. Just be wary of this kit, as it doesnt detect "true knock". Your engine will blow before the sensor does, as I've graciously demonstrated by frying two engines.

[RON]

>>i burned three pairs of knock sensors when i went 5.5 psi

if you are afraid of knock sensor blow run an ATS Racing knock sensor kit with GM knock sensor. Just be wary of this kit, as it doesnt detect "true knock". Your engine will blow before the sensor does, as I've graciously demonstrated by frying two engines.<<

That's why I won't run a *phantom* sensor..I'd rather have it slap me with a blown sensor and pulled timming. BTW, I drove THREE YEARS with a blown sensor (CEL on). I only noticed the *limp mode* under WOT...not in daily driving. If you don't HAMMER IT big time..under hot conditions, you should be fine. I just replaced my sensors last week and I can tell it pulls harder now. I want to see if I can now stay out of trouble with no sensor mods at this time. So far so good.

[RON]

>>So u can have the same setup, but better numbers, just because u reacted quicker.

U get what im talking about here?<<

Not really.

[Eye8Pussies]

NOT dynoing because you are afraid of blowing your knock sensor or not pushing the car hard on the street....that is not a good basis for your car either...since, what good is a car that can only be used at full power in certain gears?

a well tuned car can do everything that it can do regardless of gear/speed/load



just relocate the knock sensor...

I've proven that the knock sensor picks up engine knock even from the location that I relocated it to beside the coolant filler neck.