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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Premium Gas???
Stock talk about the Generation 2 and 2.5 Toyota Solara which was released in 2004-2007

Premium Gas???

Postby wkbrdr91 » Sun Oct 11, 2009 5:57 pm

I thought our cars took diesel???

thats probably not good...
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Postby DriDed » Sun Oct 11, 2009 6:02 pm

wkbrdr91 wrote:I thought our cars took diesel???

thats probably not good...



Dude who is this on wkbrdr91's account posting borderline retarded questions?

If this is the real wkbrdr91, then I am sorry, I think you might just be high or something. :lol:
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Postby wkbrdr91 » Sun Oct 11, 2009 6:04 pm

^

I was just messing around lol

I got like NO sleep this weekend... so im a little off haha
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Postby wkbrdr91 » Sun Oct 11, 2009 6:06 pm

DriDed wrote:
wkbrdr91 wrote:I thought our cars took diesel???

thats probably not good...



Dude who is this on wkbrdr91's account posting borderline retarded questions?

If this is the real wkbrdr91, then I am sorry, I think you might just be high or something. :lol:


BTW it was Ryan (you met him at the car meet, he has the GTI) who told me that you have to have a twin cam to put in twin turbos lol
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Postby jetbtkng » Sun Oct 11, 2009 6:58 pm

i use xylene to boost my octane, as im running 6 psi boost, 94.25 octane works great, never had a problem with knocking, if anyone wants the recipe let me know...................... :drinking:
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Postby crispone » Sun Oct 11, 2009 7:24 pm

jetbtkng wrote:i use xylene to boost my octane, as im running 6 psi boost, 94.25 octane works great, never had a problem with knocking, if anyone wants the recipe let me know...................... :drinking:



Getting ready to plan my meth/water on the supra next spring... what's your recipe?

(Need it for over 15~17psi...)


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Postby CosmicGrooves » Tue Oct 13, 2009 10:46 pm

I always fill up with 93. I can tell a big (big is a relative term) difference in responsiveness between the 93 and 87 octanes. I never use 89, so I don't know.

Personally, I don't think there is enough difference between 87 and 89 to spend the money on it. But again, I've never tried it.

My driving technique prefers the 93.

But don't take my word for it...


Manual says:

"3MZ-FE engine: Select octane rating 87 or higher. For improved vehicle performance, the use of premium unleaded gasoline with an Octane Rating of 91 or higher is recommended."

This information is found on page 222 of the manual.
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Postby yaddadaimsayin » Tue Oct 13, 2009 11:35 pm

yeah i use 91. its the difference between feeding your car grape drink and grape juice. it doesn't end up costing that much different anyways. few bucks? do it for the car!
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Postby CosmicGrooves » Tue Oct 13, 2009 11:39 pm

The only reason to use 93 octane is if you drive in a way that makes a difference. If you're a conservative driver, save your money because the car will be fine with 87. If you drive hard, use the 93.

87 Octane is still GOOD gas. It just depends on where you get it. You'll only really get bad gas at an old gas station that doesn't see much action.

There is bad 93 octane and good 93 octane the same as there is with 87.
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Postby crispone » Wed Oct 14, 2009 6:51 am

CosmicGrooves wrote:The only reason to use 93 octane is if you drive in a way that makes a difference. If you're a conservative driver, save your money because the car will be fine with 87. If you drive hard, use the 93.

87 Octane is still GOOD gas. It just depends on where you get it. You'll only really get bad gas at an old gas station that doesn't see much action.

There is bad 93 octane and good 93 octane the same as there is with 87.



Interesting point to be considered here. "...if you drive in a way that makes a difference..."

^^^ So... what does that mean you ask???

Well, do you drive like crisp? Then you "NEED" higher octane! :wink:



The consideration here is relative RPM and application of throttle in an aggressive manner. Especially when dealing with variable valve timing and such, and at the HIGHER end of the tachometer, the engine is generating HIGHER COMPRESSION (by way of DYNAMIC COMPRESSION EFFECT) than it is in a more moderate range of the motors revolutions. In the case of a TURBO car, and especially when you go to a BIGGER turbo, (in which case you must run LOWER boost which can generate HIGHER horsepower but risks detonation at the same boost levels a smaller turbo afforded...) or similarly of effect... add LARGER CAMS and/or flow/port the head and bump up valve size... or even INCREASE the redline... you create DYNAMIC COMPRESSION, which is a compression value that INCREASES over the initial static compression value of the piston squish area under basic revolution of the motor.

Anyway... too much to go into here, and I'm HARDLY educated enough in the theory and application of the concept to go into more detail... but hopefully, you guys get the gist of my point.

DRIVE HARD = HIGHER OCTANE RECOMMENDED

---or---

MODIFY HEAVILY = HIGHER OCTANE RECOMMENDED

---and of course---

DRIVE HEAVILY MODIFIED CAR HARD = REALLY BUMP YOUR OCTANE!!!


It's all about preventing detonation and controlling the frontal end burn of the charge. (Slowing the burn down, in effect... to prevent "explosive" ignition that isn't smooth and controlled through the stroke of the piston upon combustion...)


DRIVE ON!



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Postby jimmm » Wed Oct 14, 2009 7:46 am

In other words, pay attention to what your own car is doing,
and then respond accordingly. :D jimmm
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Postby crispone » Wed Oct 14, 2009 7:59 am

jimmm wrote:In other words, pay attention to what your own car is doing,
and then respond accordingly. :D jimmm


BINGO!


If it GURGLES and GRUNTS in dismay... (or BLOWS A ROD through the block... you MIGHT want to check that octane rating...) :drinking:



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