SPF 0 wrote:Normally I might think it's a lifter going bad but that should increase with speed.
How old is your car and how many miles on it?
No lifters in an overhead cam engine. You're thinking old school pushrod Chevy V-8s.
Some ticking noise is normal. Fuel injectors for example, make a ticking noise under normal operation. The noise speed will match engine speed.
Naturally, you should ALWAYS have the dealer check ANY odd noises you hear. Especially while it is under warranty. Even if they can't find it, you want it on record that the problem showed up when it was under warranty.
Before you take it in, just for fun, try to find the source of the noise first. This will REALLY help the mechanic.
1) Note WHEN the noise appears.
- When the engine is cold and you first start it up.
- Does the noise go away when the engine comes to temperature?
- This will help the mechanic determine if it is a case of poor oil circulation to a part of the valve train. Perhaps the engine needs a good flushing or you have oil sludge build up.
2) Isolate WHERE the noise is.
- Use an allen head wrench and remove the plastic engine cover.
- You will need a partner to do this since it is throttle by wire and there is no throttle cable. Have your friend slowly increase engine speed while your under the hood listening for the noise. (Do I need to clarify that the car is supposed to be in park and not moving? LMAO That could get ugly.)
Have him or her stop when you signal the noise is the most obvious.
- Have your partner note the RPM that the noise is most noticeable.
- Take a common screwdriver (The tool, not the drink.) and use it to find the source location of the ticking. Loosely holding the screwdriver place the tip in various spots along the valve covers and fuel injector rails that go along side the valve covers.
- If you can't find it try placing it on the engine block between the valve cover and exhaust manifold. You won't be able to do the for the rear bank of cylinders.
- When you find it, note the location. Place a dab of White Out there if you have to so you can show the dealer.
If it's a valve train issue, this helps the mechanic understand EXACTLY when the failure might be.
3) Also check the exhaust. Under the same test, hold your hand close (but not on) the exhaust manifold and feel for pulses of air. A leak or crack can cause a noteable ticking noise that matches RPM but should fade away when RPMs are high. Visually inspect the exhaust to see if you hit it running over something. A torn or leaking flex bellows in the exhaust will do this as well.
4) If you can't find the ticking when the car is parked, take it out for a test drive in an empty parking garage or a parking lot when you can hear the sounds.
- Is it a small tick that sounds off about the time it take for the tire to make one full revolution. (Check tires for a rock or foreign object imbedded in the tread.)
- While rolling, does the ticking go away when the transmission is placed in neutral? Is it gone when the car stops rolling?
I know a lot of this is oversimplified. A little time spent on your part will save the dealership from possibly missing the root cause of the problem or wasting a lot of your time waiting for the car to be checked out.
Sometimes they don't spend the time to find or duplicate the problems. Sometimes they need to keep the car overnight so it is cold when they try to find the noise.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
by scLara626 » Fri Dec 29, 2006 6:22 pm 
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