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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - 1MZ-FE teardown
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1MZ-FE teardown

1MZ-FE teardown

Postby Smaay » Mon Mar 12, 2012 1:50 pm

This guide is for reference only. This is how I tore down the 1MZ-FE engine over the weekend. Here is the engine when I started. I mounted it on an engine stand and went to work.
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Here are a few shots so I can remember vacuum lines.
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I removed the power steering pump here. there are 2 bolts holding it to the block

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I took the engine cover off to show the VSVs and the fuel rails. It looks like some critter built a nest on the valve cover. There is another one on the back side of the head. I really wanted to slap the guy at the junkyard for telling me this is a good clean block.

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I unplugged the spark plug wires from the coils to the rear plugs

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These are the 2 spots there those wires are secured down. I just unclipped the clip and removed the 10mm bolt.

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Here you see the wires going back to the rear plugs. Using a needle nose pliers you squeeze the tabs together and the mount pops off. I also removed the 2 intake manifold support bars.

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Here I'm just making sure that I know where all the vacuum lines are going to the VSVs.

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Here I unplugged the 3 coils from the wiring harness and moved it out of the way.

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These next 2 pics are the wire going down to the oil pressure sensor and crank position sensor.

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Here I'm removing the passenger side engine mount.

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Here it looks like I just remove a harness ground from the intake manifold, you can also see on the left where I removed the EGR.

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To get to the back injector plugs I had to remove the intake manifold. With those last injectors unplugged I was able to remove the wiring harness.

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Next I started on the AC compressor. I removed the bolts holding it to the block and this bracket

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Here I removed the timing belt covers. Its held on by 10mm bolts. My heavy duty impact gun was able to break the crank pulley loose. Getting it off was another story. I had to build a makeshift gear puller to get it off.

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This is looking down on top of the block, Here I'm removing the lower runners of the intake manifold.

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Here you can see that weird bug nest.

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This is the lower intake manifold removed.

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Here is the right side of the engine, this is where the thermostat is hiding. The brass sensor is the water temp sensor

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Here I removed the hard water line and the thermostat.

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Here I removed the water filler hard pipe and the soft water hose. You can see the 2 knock sensors here.

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Finally got the crank pulley off.

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Stick a small allen wrench in the timing belt tensioner and remove the tensioner.

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Removed the timing belt. To get the black timing belt cover off you have to remove the cam gears. They are both the same gear except on the rear bank its on backwards. You can see the lip on the gear is swapped.

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To get the cam gears off, use a wrench on these “gears” on the cams to prevent them from rotating. Use a large breaker bar on the nut on the actual cam gear. The cam gear bolt is a 17mm.

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Here the cover is off, its also easier to get off the idler pulley mount off now.

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I removed the cams and kept the caps in order. I also marked the shims and buckets for their location. I used the naming convention of Front Intake 1 or Front Exhaust 1

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Here is a close up of the Rear bank. What I'm calling the front bank actually has an L in the casing.

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I removed the front head. The head bolts are 12mm 12pt bolts and there is a single allen head bolt too.

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Both heads removed

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The cylinder walls, it was so dirty in this engine. I'm so glad I'm doing this rebuild.

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I remove the AC mounting bracket on the block and the front engine mount.

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Remove the timing belt tensioner pulley. You can see the water pump on here too.

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Remove this exhaust thing. Water flows behind it, so I'm assuming its used to cool down the exhaust.

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Here the water pump is removed. It was actually looking good, but I'm still going to replace it.

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Looking down, next to remove is this water line block cover. I don’t know what to call it.

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Once I got that thing off I flipped the engine over and removed the #2 oil pan.

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Remove the oil pickup.

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The # 1 oil pan is held on by 12mm bolts and a few 10mm bolts at the oil pump and rear main seal assembly.

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Rear main seal assembly removed.

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Oil pump removal.

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Here is the first rod and piston removed. The skirt on the sides of the piston looks good. I can tell you now that the 1MZ-FE rods look about the middle in strength between a 1ZZ-FE and 2ZZ-GE. They are smaller than a 5S-FE and 3S-GTE. Once I go through all my boxes, ill make a good comparison picture.

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There is a small dimple on the top of the piston to indicate forward. The rod also has a similar mark, here you can see it. It’s the tab right in the middle and bottom of this rod. The other side is just round.

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All the pistons and rods. Ill clean them up when I'm ready to re-assemble.

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Next is get the mains out. These are 6 bolt mains. There are 2 bolts on each side and there is also a single bolt on the sides of the block. It took me a minute to figure out what those were for.

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The mains are numbered so you cant mix them up. Looking at this main, the #2 that’s raised in an arrow pointing up is the actual number of the main. Not the number 2 stamped in the middle.

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Crankshaft out.
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Here you can see the iron inserts in the block. I think you can get away with a .020 overbore with these inserts. After that you will need something like a Darton sleeve. There is plenty of room between the cylinders for that.

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Here is everything on my tables. Lots of parts in there.

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Last edited by Smaay on Mon Mar 12, 2012 8:22 pm, edited 2 times in total.
1990 Celica All-Trac 3S-GTE
1997 Celica GT 1MZ/3MZ hybrid
1997 Supra 2JZ-GTE
2001 Celica GT-S 2ZZ-GTE
1998 Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel

Thats alot of BOOST!!!!
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Re: 1MZ-FE teardown

Postby pwizzle » Mon Mar 12, 2012 3:23 pm

It seems pretty thorough although the links for the pictures don't seem to be working. Might just be me.
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Re: 1MZ-FE teardown

Postby 1gSE » Mon Mar 12, 2012 6:56 pm

pix don't work
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GTO-Vararam/Kooks/Spintech/MGW-P/Tune-12.9 @108
Solara-M62 @ 5.5psi
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Re: 1MZ-FE teardown

Postby Smaay » Mon Mar 12, 2012 8:01 pm

im working on them

fixed

I didn't take pics of the head dis-assembly but when i built everything back, i will take good pictures. I promise :)
1990 Celica All-Trac 3S-GTE
1997 Celica GT 1MZ/3MZ hybrid
1997 Supra 2JZ-GTE
2001 Celica GT-S 2ZZ-GTE
1998 Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel

Thats alot of BOOST!!!!
Smaay
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Re: 1MZ-FE teardown

Postby Smaay » Tue Mar 13, 2012 1:32 pm

something i noticed. the bearing under the main cap was a #2 but the same journal on the block had a #1, has anyone else run into this?
1990 Celica All-Trac 3S-GTE
1997 Celica GT 1MZ/3MZ hybrid
1997 Supra 2JZ-GTE
2001 Celica GT-S 2ZZ-GTE
1998 Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel

Thats alot of BOOST!!!!
Smaay
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Re: 1MZ-FE teardown

Postby SteveSolara » Wed Mar 14, 2012 11:50 pm

Thanks for uploading Pictures, these are very helpful. Awesome job btw
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Re: 1MZ-FE teardown

Postby TheGreenDutch » Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:10 am

yeah nice pics. It looks like the motor isn't in too bad of a shape. I've seen some with heavy sludge build up. Not much scoring on the block here...
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Re: 1MZ-FE teardown

Postby Smaay » Fri Mar 16, 2012 7:24 pm

yeah there was some dark tarnish on the lower oil pan, but the cylinder walls look pretty good.

After talking to Gabe more and more, im seriously considering a 3MZ with 1MZ heads. does anyone have a HP rating for that combo?
1990 Celica All-Trac 3S-GTE
1997 Celica GT 1MZ/3MZ hybrid
1997 Supra 2JZ-GTE
2001 Celica GT-S 2ZZ-GTE
1998 Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel

Thats alot of BOOST!!!!
Smaay
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Re: 1MZ-FE teardown

Postby Gregtrd » Fri Mar 16, 2012 8:00 pm

By best dyno run was 374wtq and 320.5 @9lbs . Coming some 400wtq on stock
Internals.
The Fastest Camry in Socal
366whp / 427wtq @10.5psi
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Re: 1MZ-FE teardown

Postby Smaay » Thu Mar 22, 2012 12:33 pm

thats boosted, what about N/A?
1990 Celica All-Trac 3S-GTE
1997 Celica GT 1MZ/3MZ hybrid
1997 Supra 2JZ-GTE
2001 Celica GT-S 2ZZ-GTE
1998 Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel

Thats alot of BOOST!!!!
Smaay
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Location: Lancaster, CA

Re: 1MZ-FE teardown

Postby chullen1 » Sun Jun 03, 2012 9:54 pm

Smaay wrote:thats boosted, what about N/A?

I am shooting for 265 whp. I think with the 2mz intake cams and 3mz exhaust cams and ported heads. I could do it. I am also planning a few minor tweaks to the internals like cryogenic freezing the rods to strengthen the metal the rods are made from. I will be using ARP head studs, rod bolts and main studs I am also doing some swaintech on the pistons and heads and also the bearings.
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Re: 1MZ-FE teardown

Postby Mister_Perkins » Sun Dec 02, 2012 11:33 am

Smaay wrote:yeah there was some dark tarnish on the lower oil pan, but the cylinder walls look pretty good.

After talking to Gabe more and more, im seriously considering a 3MZ with 1MZ heads. does anyone have a HP rating for that combo?


old thread, but tony the tiger off toyota nation forums is pushing 935HP using the 3mz/1mz combination
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Re: 1MZ-FE teardown

Postby Smaay » Wed Jan 09, 2013 8:23 am

this engine started knocking after i rebuilt it. im still investigating why it chewed up the rod bearings. Im now running a full 3MZ
1990 Celica All-Trac 3S-GTE
1997 Celica GT 1MZ/3MZ hybrid
1997 Supra 2JZ-GTE
2001 Celica GT-S 2ZZ-GTE
1998 Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel

Thats alot of BOOST!!!!
Smaay
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Posts: 137
Joined: Thu Mar 14, 2002 5:00 pm
Location: Lancaster, CA

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