SolaraGuy.com

Sorry for the delay in replies. Anyway, they're the reverse (white background) ones from ebay, with the CF indiglo in the centers of the gauges.

Anyway, it seems like if I were to get a wire and connect the two pins together instead of putting the switch there, it would work. I think the switch is messing it up.

I installed 2x3157 for my brake lights. It's amazing how much of a difference I noticed in the illumination. But I have an issue. My burned light indicator is now on on my dashboard. I thought that just installing LEDs for my brakelights would not cause this problem. Can I just ignoe the indicator, or should I get those routers to resolve this issue.

red2002solara wrote:I installed 2x3157 for my brake lights. It's amazing how much of a difference I noticed in the illumination. But I have an issue. My burned light indicator is now on on my dashboard. I thought that just installing LEDs for my brakelights would not cause this problem. Can I just ignore the indicator, or should I get those routers to resolve this issue.

I plan on replacing as many bulbs as I can with LED's. However I haven't started yet. Please keep us posted on how you solved this problem. As I will be running into this when I start replacing.
Josh

I bought my LEDs at autolumination.com. I email Chris and asked him about my issue. He told me previously that I would need load equalizers (I called them routers before) if I got LEDs for my turn signals. I asked him if I'm going to need them for just having LEDs on my brake lights, or if he has a quick solution. The lights work with no problem, it's just annoying having that indicator lit up on my dashboard. I wonder if it's lighting up because less power is being sent to power my brake lights now. Anyway, I'll let you know what he says. If anyone else has encountered this problem, let us know how you resolved it.

This is the response I got from autolumination.com


HI Robert-

The led has high resistance and that makes the system believe the bulb is burned out.

Other than to somehow deactivate the bulb warning system (which I do not know what this might do, or how to do it), the equalizer is the only way to fix it.

If the bulb-out warning is just a light that lights up, you could probably just remove that lightbulb.

red2002solara wrote:This is the response I got from autolumination.com
HI Robert-
The led has high resistance and that makes the system believe the bulb is burned out.
Other than to somehow deactivate the bulb warning system (which I do not know what this might do, or how to do it), the equalizer is the only way to fix it.
If the bulb-out warning is just a light that lights up, you could probably just remove that lightbulb.

I was thinking about just removing the bulb of the indicator light. The only real problem would be if another light went out light a turning light or something, you wouldn't really know until you get pulled over or somebody tells you.
WtF is a load equalizer? Sounds like it could be a solution, if it existed. We would most likely need one for each light we replace with led's. And it would take around 20+ led's to equal the current of an incandescent. But if there was one, it would counteract one reason to switch to led's which is saving electricity. But this seems like too much. I would just remove the bulb for the indicator light. Simple solution.
Josh

I yanked that bulb this summer, when I got my spoiler put on. Since I unplugged my stock 3rd brake light, it stayed on. I could either unsolder, and rewire the spoiler to the third brake light...or just pop out the guages and pull out the bulb. I took the easy way out.

Then my high filament in my brake light went out, and I didnt find out til before a meet and Chrystie started yellin at me tellin me it blew.

So yea, its got its up and downs. Just get someone to check em for you every once in a while.

I think a load equalizer just increase the resistance in a circuit. On turn signals this is imporant since the blinker speed is affected by resistance. But yea, you would use up extra eletricity due to this. I dont think it would be too hard to roll your own though, if you knew the resistance that was required to "load equalize" the LED.

I'm no electrician though, I just play one on TV, so your on your own for that.

Chris at autolumination.com can explain the equalizers more in detail than I could. But you have to splice the equalizer into the Solara electrical system, which I do not want to do. I'll probably just drive with the indicator light on, it doesn't bother me. I didn't have the indicator light on my Honda, and I knew when a light went out when I would start my car each morning by turning on the lights and seeing the reflection off my garage door. I park backwards with my Solara, so I'll just check each time that there is a reflection going off the garage door. I'm going to be ordering LED turn signals at the end of next weekend...I can't wait!

I put blue LED's from autoilumination, particularly in the manual climate control part. It's really bright towards the center of the console, but it's really hard to see around the outer edges. Anybody have any suggestions on how to displace the light better?

Jon11582 wrote:Complete Lighting guide for Gen1 and Gen1.5.

I think thats all of them. I also replaced my dome and reading lights with superwhite. These are festoon bulbs. I dont remember what size they are though, so just measure thier length and match the size when ordering. (ill update if anyone knows what size they are.) LEDs really suck for dome lights because of their direct beams.

I just bought blue dome bulbs. they are 211-2. autozone didnt have them, but Pep Boys did. its not intensly blue, and its slightly dimmer than white, but i like it. the dome lights are so far back thanks to the sunroof, that the map light gives much more light anyway. blue illuminated entry comes tomorrow

Jon u are the man! I bought the gauges from procar and the CF bezel off ebay. I should be getting them this week. I was wonderin how you got the signals white! Dude I'm in Nj and i may need your professional help even though i'm pretty handy I hate to screw things up. Send me an email dude

i have bought the festoon baloon lights but can someone tell me how i can get to the stock ones? i dont know how to open the maplight nor the dome light. thanks

Madd props Jon. That's some heavy researching. Keep up the good work bro.

-M

2kSoulara wrote:Jon u are the man! I bought the gauges from procar and the CF bezel off ebay. I should be getting them this week. I was wonderin how you got the signals white! Dude I'm in Nj and i may need your professional help even though i'm pretty handy I hate to screw things up. Send me an email dude

If you need help, PM me, I'll be more than happy to.

To get to the festooon lights, theres a notch in each plastic lens..you put a flathead screwdriver in there and pry it out if I recall right.

Thanks Mike, its appreciated