Alternator brush replacement
by NeFaRiOuS_SLE » Thu Mar 24, 2011 11:32 pm
PREFACE
To replace a V6 alternator is about $170-180, a re-manufactured one is $90-110 or so, and if you're going to a stealership expect to pay even more PLUS labor. Forget that!!! I paid only $25.24 from Longo Toyota (you can order it online for as cheap as $7-10 or perhaps even lower, but I didn't have the time to wait) and it took only about an hour and 10 minutes for me to do, and the alternator is doing just as good as new!
However, I read somewhere that the only things that are done to most re-manufactured alternators are the following:
1. Clean out all the dirt/dust to make it aesthetically pleasing for sale (100% of cases)
2. Replace voltage regulator (only 5% of them actually needs to be replaced, but it's done more so for assurance that it'll work. But it costs the average consumer/small business $100 to buy one; professional re-manufacturers usually buy them in bulk.
3. 100% of them replace this part, and 95% of why alternators fail is ONLY because of 2 simple 3/4" sticks of graphite on a spring: The alternator brushes.
I tried searching here for information on the subject, but didn't find any... Then when I was actually replacing the parts, I forgot to take instructional pics.
YOU WILL NEED
Alternator brush assembly (Toyota part #27370-75060)
8mm and 10mm socket wrench
Philips screwdriver
Small flat screwdriver (to push the brushes in)
Cleaning brush
Electric parts cleaner fluid
1. Remove the alternator. If you don't know how to, check here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9LOl5fUI20
2. Once you got it out, remove the nut and insulator from the output terminal (the one you had to unbolt from the engine's wiring; it's going to be that copper thing sticking out in the lower left corner).
3. On the opposite side of the Remove the 3 retaining nuts and carefully remove the rear alternator cover (it was a very thin/light material).
4. Once open, remove the 2 retaining screws from the brush holder assembly (where the orange part is in the pic).
If the brushes are more than 1/4" long and the springs move freely, chances are the problem is that there's too much dust on the voltage regulator that's preventing the battery from receiving a full charge, or it could be something else within the alternator or electrical system itself. If it is 1/4" long or lower (minimum 0.059", or about 0.15mm), you should replace it; any shorter and it would be in contact with the electrodes beneath it and actually damage the copper shaft (the round shaft in the middle of the orange part). For reference, the ones pictured are about 1/16" (or 0.0625" / 1.587mm),
5. Remove the 3 screws that retain the voltage regulator (where the the brown plastic block with a connector on the left and a heat sink on the top; 2 on the heat sink itself, and 1 somewhere near the previous screw... It's not exactly shown in this pic since it was covered with dust), then blast it with electric parts cleaner fluid. Installation is the reverse of normal.
6. Insert the assembly back in. Push the brushes with a small screwdriver to clear the copper shaft.
7. Put it back together by following the reversal of steps 2-4.
To replace a V6 alternator is about $170-180, a re-manufactured one is $90-110 or so, and if you're going to a stealership expect to pay even more PLUS labor. Forget that!!! I paid only $25.24 from Longo Toyota (you can order it online for as cheap as $7-10 or perhaps even lower, but I didn't have the time to wait) and it took only about an hour and 10 minutes for me to do, and the alternator is doing just as good as new!
However, I read somewhere that the only things that are done to most re-manufactured alternators are the following:
1. Clean out all the dirt/dust to make it aesthetically pleasing for sale (100% of cases)
2. Replace voltage regulator (only 5% of them actually needs to be replaced, but it's done more so for assurance that it'll work. But it costs the average consumer/small business $100 to buy one; professional re-manufacturers usually buy them in bulk.
3. 100% of them replace this part, and 95% of why alternators fail is ONLY because of 2 simple 3/4" sticks of graphite on a spring: The alternator brushes.
I tried searching here for information on the subject, but didn't find any... Then when I was actually replacing the parts, I forgot to take instructional pics.
YOU WILL NEED
Alternator brush assembly (Toyota part #27370-75060)
8mm and 10mm socket wrench
Philips screwdriver
Small flat screwdriver (to push the brushes in)
Cleaning brush
Electric parts cleaner fluid
1. Remove the alternator. If you don't know how to, check here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9LOl5fUI20
2. Once you got it out, remove the nut and insulator from the output terminal (the one you had to unbolt from the engine's wiring; it's going to be that copper thing sticking out in the lower left corner).
3. On the opposite side of the Remove the 3 retaining nuts and carefully remove the rear alternator cover (it was a very thin/light material).
4. Once open, remove the 2 retaining screws from the brush holder assembly (where the orange part is in the pic).
If the brushes are more than 1/4" long and the springs move freely, chances are the problem is that there's too much dust on the voltage regulator that's preventing the battery from receiving a full charge, or it could be something else within the alternator or electrical system itself. If it is 1/4" long or lower (minimum 0.059", or about 0.15mm), you should replace it; any shorter and it would be in contact with the electrodes beneath it and actually damage the copper shaft (the round shaft in the middle of the orange part). For reference, the ones pictured are about 1/16" (or 0.0625" / 1.587mm),
5. Remove the 3 screws that retain the voltage regulator (where the the brown plastic block with a connector on the left and a heat sink on the top; 2 on the heat sink itself, and 1 somewhere near the previous screw... It's not exactly shown in this pic since it was covered with dust), then blast it with electric parts cleaner fluid. Installation is the reverse of normal.
6. Insert the assembly back in. Push the brushes with a small screwdriver to clear the copper shaft.
7. Put it back together by following the reversal of steps 2-4.
- NeFaRiOuS_SLE
- SolaraGuy Semi-Pro Racer
- Posts: 3502
- Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2005 9:59 am
- Location: Diamond Bar, CA
)... At least it wasn't as complex as the video tutorial I saw; it was for another car, and it involved having to take out the voltage regulator, replace the springs and rewire the brushes instead of a convenient cartridge.