Fuel Filter removal (Jims Mod upgrade)

[crankine3]

I am attempting to get the Jim's Mod fuel setup in on a Gen 1, and I can't get the fuel line off of the old filter. The one on the bottom, that comes from the fuel tank/pump. I do not know the last time the filter was replaced, if ever. I can't get my eyes on it, and I can't figure out what the size is of the nut and while I can get a 10 inch adjustable wrench in there, I can't get it exact enough. Or at least when I think I have it right, I can't get enough leverage. I think it is 14mm, but my 14mm wrench is too long. The Toyota repair manual refers to a special service tool (sst 09023-38400) when doing other things with the fuel lines, but the manual does not address taking off that nut in anything detail and I can't find details on that SST. I sprayed it with WD-40 and I am going to let it sit at my parents over night. But I am hoping someone has some advice or a trick to get the filter off. Is there another way to get this out? Is the line going into the fuel filter a short segment I can remove from the car entirely and work on it on a vice? If I get in a bind, can I put the connectors from Jim's Mod into the top of the old filter?

[crankine3]

Too many crickets in here.

Yes, I have removed a few fuel filters before. This is the first I have not been able to see or get two counter wrenches into. All the other have been GM derivatives, and going back late. I have done the youtube thing for 1mz-fe derivatives and found people clamping the bolt on the fuel line, and torquing the fuel filer (after all mounting is gone). Youtoubers claim corrosion on that lower fuel line nut. I can't quote it but I know the Toyota manual said to never rotate the filter out of or into the fuel line nut. It is also a 13 year old book.

I put myself in a pickle here and I'll take any experience on that filter, please.

[corlon]

1st time I tried to remove that filter I couldn't get it loose. brought it to 2 different shops and the 2nd one heated it up in order to remove it. I'm guessing it was the original one with 140,000mi on it. I think it was a 14 or 15mm, can't remember. just remember it not fitting on the very well because of the rust on the nut. I don't think the fuel mod will fit on the stock filter.

[TadS]

It's been a long time since I've done one, but I remember it's a massive PIA. Remember to use 6 points, and flair wenches to reduce the chances of rounding.

[crankine3]

I stopped after two slips with the adjustable wrench, I knew that wasn't going to get it. I bought an inexpensive set of flair wrenches on Amazon that cover 14mm and 15mm and they are only about 8 inches long, so I'll be get them in there. So cheap that this 3 piece "all metric" set has a 3/8ths / 7/16ths wrench, proudly made in china. But I am still concerned about getting enough force to break the nut away, hopefully the WD-40 is doing well.

The pickle I am in is that I took off the lines going to the fuel rails, and I can't get them back on right, so I am better off just getting through this or going to a shop means a tow truck. I have plenty of spare copper washers, but I don't want to keep digging into those fuel rails, I don't want to have to end up replacing those too. I have a loaner car for the weekend (Gen 1 Avalon with the same 1MZ-FE, but suspension is non existent)

[TadS]

The flair wrench will give you a much greater contact surface with the fastener, and allow you to direct more force into it. If you have room you can hook another wrench to it to increase the length of your lever. If you can get a can of PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst, that generally does a better job of rust busting than the WD-40.

Good luck!

[crankine3]

So, utter failure. I got the 14mm flare nut wrench on, but it wouldn't budge. After some excessive force the nut rounded a bit. I put the old fuel lines back together, but the rear bank one was a pain in the ass the put back on (part 23270 in picture below). It was hard to tighten it, and I had to remove the strut bar to really tighten it. I might end up having to pay someone to do this, for now I am just bringing my car back home and I am going to look for options.

The filter that comes on the V6 is not directly compatible with Jim's mod, though other parts may make it. The Celica (Jim's Mod) filter uses a banjo nut, the stock V6 Solara uses some quick disconnect thing, that I am surprised doesn't leak. (Part 23801P below, it is built into the hose I believe)

There does not appear to be another connector on the fuel line between the bottom of the filter and near the tank. (The last car I worked on, there was a transition with short rubber hoses behind the firewall under the driver's feet.) So, replacing a "short section" is not really an option. Tough the OEM replacement is only about $50 if I have to go that route. However, I have read of other people running AN fuel line (the same stuff used in Jim's Mod) all the way from the fuel pump assembly to the fuel filter. This might be my cheapest, and still maybe the best solution. I will re-read the forums that talk about doing this, but does anyone know of any issues that might come up when working with the fuel lines under the rear seat? I might leave all the old stuff in place, and not cut it out, I guess as a backup.

[crankine3]

So, I am now considering going down the route of cutting a few inches down from the existing steel line, and adding a new nut assembly in there, like what Rouge did. Details are here, viewtopic.php?t=37263 but the links are to a dead website. So, if I find new products, I'll update the how-to. Still not sure if I want to try that, or a new steel braided line all the way back.

FYI, my plan is to eventually boost this. Stock boost at first, eventually up to 6psi with all the other cooling things in place.

[TadS]

Bummer it wouldn't budge. Sometimes crap just breaks, and that's the only way it's coming off. I spent about 5 years in the shop, and if I had a nickel for every old part or fitting I wiped out, I'd have a lot of f'n nickels.

[crankine3]

Using Google search with "site:solaraguy.com" gets me much better results than the phpBB search, so I have been reading up a lot more, and this stuck lower nut on the stock fuel filter is a pandemic problem, with people having issues as early as 2004.

My plans now are to stick to just running a whole new line with AN6, I don't feel comfortable doing the splice and the line is old anyway. I should knock this out this weekend.

[corlon]

sounds like a solid plan. good luck and have fun with it. doing new stuff always made it feel cooler then maintenance.

[crankine3]

So, I am stuck again.

It appears the quick disconnect connector on the top of the plastic fuel pump assembly is a 5/8ths quick disconnect, though it is difficult to find information about this connector. I have a 3/8ths to AN-6 converter in hand. The plastic Quick disconnect clip looks the same, the converter slides onto the plastic just loose enough .... but I don't think the aftermarket adapter is long enough. And not just maybe a mm, the new adapter is maybe 7-8 mm too short. I have yet to try to give it a good whack to to put it on and maybe engage all the quick disconnect plasticky spring bits, as i'll need a removal tool to get this new one off. Looking at the associated 3/8ths to AN-6 converters with the male style 3/8ths quick disconnect, they appear to be the same length as the piece of plastic coming out of my gas tank.

Does anyone have advice on how to interface with the stock plastic fuel pump module outlet thingy? I know a few people have done external FPR and return setups, but the only real detail I can find about that connector is someone filed it down and used a larger hose and a hose clamp on it. I am hoping to not have to modify that outlet plastic bit.

If no one has any good ideas, I'll go and splice the front end, using all these AN-6 tiddly bits I now have laying around.