Morimoto Mini H1 Projectors
I always wanted projector headlights but was never in the mood to cut-up my headlights. So I picked up a HID Projector kit from The Retrofit Source on Cyber Monday. The projector install was very straight forward, open headlight, put in projectors, and close up the headlight
. I couldn't use my 55w DDM Tuning HID kit because it could melt my projectors so I had to pick up the TRS 35w HID Kit. It doesn't seem as bright but it's still a big improvement over stock. There is some glare because the projectors sit so far back in the headlight. If I ever have to take apart the headlight again I'll probably paint the chrome reflector (and clear corners) silver to match the car. I could have painted them matte black but I didn't want to completely blacked out my car, I like the contrast. This was my first headlight mod so below is a guide not a tutorial.
Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (H1)
Morimoto Mini H1 4.1 bi-xenon projectors w/ clear lenses
Mini Gatling Gun Shrouds
Adapter Plate: H4
HID
Ballasts: Morimoto 3Five (35w)
Bulbs: H1: Morimoto 3Five 5000K
H4 Plug n Play Bi-xenon Relay Harness (NOTE: if you use this harness, it's a bit backwards for our cars. It was a pain to figure out because you have to switch the pins around, but that is for another tread)

Step 1 - If you're not using a new headlight, clean the headlight best with a good headlight restoration kit. To remove the headlight you will have to remove the front grill and corner lights to access the bolts on both sides and the top. It takes a little work and maneuvering to pull out the headlight. After cleaning the headlight I baked it for 11 min and 220 degrees F. Using some flat head screw drivers, I pry off the lens all the way a around. I also use a heat gun to heat up the glue (or you can put it back in the oven) when it started cooling. The black plastic was defiantly soft when it was heated so there a bunch of screw driver marks all the way around the headlight. Take apart the headlight you can remove the bulb cover in side.

Step 2 - Prepping the projector. Remove the bulb holder brackets from the back of the projectors. Attach the Mini Gatling Gun should with 4 screws in the back. Add the large rubber washer to the other end. I also use some foil tape to tape down the solenoid wires to the projectors so they are less visible in the reflections.

Step 3 - Slide the projector into place and attached the H4 plate from the back of the headlight.

Step 4 - CAREFULLY attached the locking ring next. The ring is made of aluminum and is easy to strip. I used needle nose pliers and ended up stripping one locking ring (had to order another pair $5). It's important to have it on tight or else the projector will vibrate.

Step 5 - Reattach the bulb holder bracket.

Step 6 - Double check everything is on tight, add additional glue (optional) and place everything back in the oven to warm up the glue. I press the headlight back together using my hands and a C-Clamp. The more clamps the better I only had one and worked my way around. Just for insurance I went around the headlight with some more extreme weather foil tape to seal it up.


I will add more pics later of the cut off later.

Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (H1)
Morimoto Mini H1 4.1 bi-xenon projectors w/ clear lenses
Mini Gatling Gun Shrouds
Adapter Plate: H4
HID
Ballasts: Morimoto 3Five (35w)
Bulbs: H1: Morimoto 3Five 5000K
H4 Plug n Play Bi-xenon Relay Harness (NOTE: if you use this harness, it's a bit backwards for our cars. It was a pain to figure out because you have to switch the pins around, but that is for another tread)

Step 1 - If you're not using a new headlight, clean the headlight best with a good headlight restoration kit. To remove the headlight you will have to remove the front grill and corner lights to access the bolts on both sides and the top. It takes a little work and maneuvering to pull out the headlight. After cleaning the headlight I baked it for 11 min and 220 degrees F. Using some flat head screw drivers, I pry off the lens all the way a around. I also use a heat gun to heat up the glue (or you can put it back in the oven) when it started cooling. The black plastic was defiantly soft when it was heated so there a bunch of screw driver marks all the way around the headlight. Take apart the headlight you can remove the bulb cover in side.

Step 2 - Prepping the projector. Remove the bulb holder brackets from the back of the projectors. Attach the Mini Gatling Gun should with 4 screws in the back. Add the large rubber washer to the other end. I also use some foil tape to tape down the solenoid wires to the projectors so they are less visible in the reflections.

Step 3 - Slide the projector into place and attached the H4 plate from the back of the headlight.

Step 4 - CAREFULLY attached the locking ring next. The ring is made of aluminum and is easy to strip. I used needle nose pliers and ended up stripping one locking ring (had to order another pair $5). It's important to have it on tight or else the projector will vibrate.

Step 5 - Reattach the bulb holder bracket.

Step 6 - Double check everything is on tight, add additional glue (optional) and place everything back in the oven to warm up the glue. I press the headlight back together using my hands and a C-Clamp. The more clamps the better I only had one and worked my way around. Just for insurance I went around the headlight with some more extreme weather foil tape to seal it up.


I will add more pics later of the cut off later.
1999 Toyota Solara SE 4 cyl 5s-fe Auto
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nguyenSTX - Regular SolaraGuy Member
- Posts: 105
- Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2003 1:28 am
- Location: Beaverton, OR