Megan Racing M2 Header install on a V6

[1BADGTS]

I notice that as of lately there's been alot of issues with getting headers for the 1mz V6. JPP will only make the headers in runs, so you have to wait until they have enough people commited to buy their $1300-$1400 set. OBX's version have been on back order since early spring and they still haven't been able to get them made. Which leaves the only version anyone can get a hold of is the Megan Racing M2 version (the Ebay version), these haven't been without fitment issues from what I understand. Well, unfortunetly for me my front pipe decided it was done and the flex portion had broke/rotted through. Which kind of left me with no choice, Toyota OEM front pipe is @ $1200, can't wait for the JPP headers or the OBX any longer, so I diecide to get the Megan Racing M2 kit and give it a shot. I'm going to document the install from start to finish so all can see what they are getting themselves into !! I will be updating as the project goes so you get an Ideal of what is involved in doing this install. To start, I am doing this in my home garage, but I do have a nice set of tools, air compressor & a welder if needed. No lift though, this will be a flatback and jack stand job. The kit took about 4-5 days to get to me from Megan Racing. I'll be starting the install today and I'll update as much as possible. Here is the kit I'm using....

[GzNutz]

Good luck with your install. I hope they work out without too much of a fuss. Hopefully this will be a valid option for the other 1 mz'ers.

[1BADGTS]

Thanks, thats what I really want to see, if they are worth it !!

[ToyoSolV6]

good thing you have a welder. The ebay headers are made very poorly so keep an eye for any imperfections.

[Gregtrd]

If I remember correctly i did that install back in 07 or 08, when you get stuck
Let me know ill point you in the right direction, hope youre crafty with the welder
when it comes to egr tube.

[1BADGTS]

I started with Bank 2 (closest to the front of the car). Removed the old manifold and cleaned everything up. the stud & pipe on the header for cylinder #6 had to be slightly modified; I had to ding the pipe in a bit and shorten the stud to be able to properly secure the bank 2 header. Also I needed to remove the o2 connector from it's mount to give it a little more slack in the wiring harness due to the o2 sensor being in a slightly different position on the new header.



Now, on to bank 1 (firewall side). Things are alot tighter on the firewall side. I ended up removing my air intake, shifter cables, cable mount bracket, diconnecting the heater hoses, loosening the brake valve and clutch line mount. I then disconnected the EGR tube from the manifold to the block, then removed the original manifold through the bottom.





To make a little more space I removed the small heat shield from the motor mount and disconnected the transmission mount so I could move the engine assembly around a bit to get the new header in. The new header will NOT go in from the bottom, it must go in from the side. It took quite a bit of wrestling around to get it in position. I found the stud over cylinder #5 had to be shortened to allow the nut to fit and tighten down properly.




The original EGR tube does NOT fit correctly to the new headers, so depending on the condition of your tube you'll have to either fabricate a new tube or make this one fit, mine is in pretty good shape so I'm going to modifiy it to work with the new setup. I'll be finishing the EGR tube and fitting the front pipe today. Here's the stretched and refitted EGR tube.

[GzNutz]

Congrats on the install.

[SteveSolara]

I had the same problems and modifications in order it to fit, but the test pipe on it sounds ok, But its worth it, besides the annoying little modifications. Nice tutorial Thanks for posting it

[SteveSolara]

The Nice polished chrome look to it wont last, mine turned all gold, and the shine is still there but just not chrome LOL

[ToyoSolV6]

Steve, your rocking the same megan headers?

[SteveSolara]

Same one 1BADGTS has.





^ Stupid Fabrication. Poorly done, but not something a bench grinder can't fix Same thing with the rear Headers

[1BADGTS]

Yeah, I have to say, probably the BIGGEST pain through the whole thing was messing with the EGR tube, I bet I have 4 hours wrapped up into making the stock EGR tube work !! I ended up stretching it out and rebending the entire tube into what I needed. If you were doing this install and your EGR tube is rusty, you may have a problem !! It would be nice if there was a more flexible type of EGR tube out there that would fit. After sealing the EGR tube up I installed the front pipe.....



I was actually very suprised on how well the front pipe lined up, BUT it wasn't without some mods as well. 1st, the O2 sensor for bank 1 is now in the front pipe instead of the header like stock. Now its located 180 degrees out and about 2 inches lower so this required me to add about 4 inches of extra wire to the o2 sensor itself, remove the connector from it's original mount area and move it so I could plug it back in. This front pipe is larger than the OEM so I had to remove the strap bracket that held the front of the OEM pipe and add 1 inch shims between the the sub-frame and exhaust hanger that holds the back of the front pipe. Once I had the frontpipe installed I made sure to zip tie the powersteering high pressure line, shift cables and wiring securely away from the header or exhaust pipe. Then I installed the test pipe, which mated up to my GReddy cat back perfectly !! Then I installed my anti-fouler on the rear O2 sensor......



I used DORMAN Spark plug anti-fouler 42002. I drilled the center out to 1/2 inch and installed it. I only had room to use 1 of the anti-foulers, I hope it's enough !! So far so good, here's a happily running 1MZ !!!!



I put about 10 miles on her today, So far No leaks & No CE light !!! Definetly louder, but sounds good !! Steve you're spot on with the color change, the picture above was after my little test drive and they are already gettin' golden !! Now we get to see how they hold up !!

[SteveSolara]

Yeah rear o2 and EGR was a bitch to do, it took me about the same time to rework the stock tube in order for it to fit....was just a bunch of trial and error, but got it on. I like your choice of hose for the recirculation pipe for the intake LOL They TB spacer I could actually feel it do something on the highways, not entirely sure, but i can def feel that it allows me to pull harder on the highways, like around 80+ mph

[1BADGTS]

The TB spacer I just put in during this install, so I haven't really got to "used" it yet. I had read somewhere someone dynoed a 1mz with and without spacer and with the curved style intake it had like 8-12hp gain, so every little bit helps !!! I also during this install put a TRD short shifter in the car. That is working out very well !! As for my recirc line, yeah...... I had so much scrap/small cut peices of hose laying around, I wasn't going to buy more, so I used what I had.

[Brandoe91]

Nice write up. Did you feel any difference over stock? I wish there was a before and after dyno but I know that's $$$$.