digital capacitors???

[AguinaldoHomes Inc]

im redoing the system in my car and i would like to know at what point should i install a digital capacitor? a

[theprodigy79]

Not sure whether you're asking when to install a digi-cap vs a "standard" cap, or when to use a cap at all... The only difference between a "digital capacitor" vs a "normal" one is the digi-caps have a voltage readout... Otherwise they function exactly the same. Keep that in mind...

First off, don't fall into the "capacaitor cures all" myth... The most common misperception about capacitors is that they are intended to cure dimming headlamps and internal lights and maintain a constant power level...

While those are certainly side effects AT TIMES, they are not the intent of the capacitor, and often not results of adding one... Capacitors are actually intended to prevent power spikes and dips from reaching your electronic equipment, and also to protect your electrical system (alternator, battery, etc...). They do NOT maintain or regulate power, as even the larger ones can only fend off a substantial fluctuation for a matter of miliseconds.

With all that said, the best thing you can possibly do for performance are the "big three". Depending on the power you plan to run, I doubt you'll have to touch your alternator, however I certainly advise upgrading your battery, power and ground wires. Doing those couple, relatively cheap/easy things will make immense differences in performance and will usually cure most, if not all dimming!!

From there, add the capacitor... The rule of thumb is 1 Farad per 1 kilowatt (.5 Farad to 500 Watts)... I find that number to be rediculously low, and would personally advise at least 2 Farad per 1 KW (I used a 5 Farad cap for my 2000W RMS system).

Follow those steps and you'll be very well off. If you're running a substantial amount of power (over 1.5KW RMS) I'd advise looking into upgrading the alternator (the third of the "big three") before you add the cap.

If it means anything at all, I'm currently running around 500-600W RMS in my Supra and not using a cap. My results have been fine.

Take care,

-James

[AguinaldoHomes Inc]

Can you recommend any good groundwires and battery? Also, where can i get a high performance alternator? Do i have to change my spark plugs and spark plug wires also?

[AguinaldoHomes Inc]

oh one more thing, will i be able to custom mount a set of component tweeters onthe pillar(right where the driver/passenger seatbelt is)?

[theprodigy79]

Any decent 4 - 0/1 gauge wire intended for 12V power/ground usage will be fine. Many people use 8 gauge and it works just fine, I prefer a tad larger (2AWG - 0/1AWG), however the larger the wire, the more difficult to maneuver / run. You can find pre-assembled kits on the web or eBay for reasonable prices.

Before you go spending your hard earned cash on a new alternator, what do you intend to run? How many amps / how much power (continuous)? Give me an idea of your expectations from your sound system. Do you know what equipment you'll be using yet (or ideas)?

No, your plugs / wires are a separate issue and have nothing to do with this.

[theprodigy79]

oh one more thing, will i be able to custom mount a set of component tweeters onthe pillar(right where the driver/passenger seatbelt is)?

You can (anything's possible with a bit of wiring and drilling), but I'd highly advise against it. You'll want to keep the tweeters as close to the midbass as possible, and forward of your seating location to keep imaging and staging more accurate. Tweeters mounted directly next to your head may also be very harsh and overly bright. Also, the higher frequencies produced by tweets travel in smaller waves and are more easily blocked/obstructed, so if you have a passenger blocking the right tweet it will be a drastic effect.

[Astro]

Try making a custom kick pod and mounting your mid and tweed there, rather than putting your tweed on the pillar. Another alternative is putting your tweed on the pillar but face it toward the windshield. By reflecting your highs off the windshield it won't be overly bright.

[theprodigy79]

Try making a custom kick pod and mounting your mid and tweed there, rather than putting your tweed on the pillar. Another alternative is putting your tweed on the pillar but face it toward the windshield. By reflecting your highs off the windshield it won't be overly bright.

Astro, not trying to contradict you bro, but I gotta disagree on a couple things. In general, the higher the speakers are mounted the better the staging and sound reproduction. Ideally you'd want your front speakers mounted about head height a couple feet forward of your seat and facing you... Unfortunately this is pretty much impossible in actual drivable cars due to the obstruction of view, so your next best bet is somewhere upper mid door panel. Once again, I gotta emphasize the importance of the tweets being as near to the main speakers as possible to maintain imaging, this is one of THE most important things, yet it's something many people overlook for convenience (including many "experienced" installers).

It's difficult to get proper staging from speakers mounted on the floor firing upward at your legs / feet, and the imaging is screwed due to obstructions such as passenger, center console, etc...

Your ideology regarding firing tweets or high range speakers toward the windshield, however, is a good idea. This should be done with additional high-range speakers or tweets though, and not a pair belonging to components. This is usually done for additional front staging ambiance with the tweets or high range speakers turned down around 6db. Your main tweeters (ones that belong in a component set) should follow the guidelines I posted above for best results though. Tweeters have the most narrow directional sound range, so their positioning is crucial.

[Astro]

The forward facing tweed was something new I saw, but I've never heard how it sounds. I was suggesting the kick pod because, IMO, it's still better than where the stock speakers are placed. I don't think he's willing to build a custom door panel so he could raise the speakers. So, wouldn't it be better putting your mids/tweeds in a kick pod facing towards the center of the car (like between the front seats) rather than in the doors facing each other? To me, there's less obstruction of the soundwaves (comparing to the bottom of the door) and placing them a little farther out you won't get as much of the Fletcher-Munson Effect. But, then again, he's not building an SQ car, right?

Yeah, alot of people forget about that, but what about tuning their system so it doesn't clip??? I see that as the biggest problem, because you know all the young bassheads clip their subs like crazy and don't even know it

[theprodigy79]

lol that's a completely separate issue...

[AguinaldoHomes Inc]

Here's my set up:

Kenwood KFC-P707 6.5" Front Component Speakers (65w/280w)
Kenwood KFC-6990ie 6x9 Rear Speakers (80w/350W)
Kenwood T-207 Component Tweeters (130w/280w)
Pair of Kenwood KFC-W3514DVC 12" Subs (380w/1500w)
Kenwood KAC-9103D Mono Amp
Kenwood KAC-8403 4/3/2 Channel Amp
Kenwood DDX-7019 DVD/TV/CD Receiver

Any suggestions would help.

[AguinaldoHomes Inc]

Also, is there anything I can do to rid of or at least control the "rattling" of the trunk when the subs are pumping? I just want a clean bass if possible.

[indiglosolara]

Also, is there anything I can do to rid of or at least control the "rattling" of the trunk when the subs are pumping? I just want a clean bass if possible.

edead from elemental designs will help. I did it to the entire hatch of my xB and all the doors...

its prety cheap at abut 2 bucks a sq ft.

[redgen1]

Not sure whether you're asking when to install a digi-cap vs a "standard" cap, or when to use a cap at all... The only difference between a "digital capacitor" vs a "normal" one is the digi-caps have a voltage readout... Otherwise they function exactly the same. Keep that in mind...

First off, don't fall into the "capacaitor cures all" myth... The most common misperception about capacitors is that they are intended to cure dimming headlamps and internal lights and maintain a constant power level...

While those are certainly side effects AT TIMES, they are not the intent of the capacitor, and often not results of adding one... Capacitors are actually intended to prevent power spikes and dips from reaching your electronic equipment, and also to protect your electrical system (alternator, battery, etc...). They do NOT maintain or regulate power, as even the larger ones can only fend off a substantial fluctuation for a matter of miliseconds.

With all that said, the best thing you can possibly do for performance are the "big three". Depending on the power you plan to run, I doubt you'll have to touch your alternator, however I certainly advise upgrading your battery, power and ground wires. Doing those couple, relatively cheap/easy things will make immense differences in performance and will usually cure most, if not all dimming!!

From there, add the capacitor... The rule of thumb is 1 Farad per 1 kilowatt (.5 Farad to 500 Watts)... I find that number to be rediculously low, and would personally advise at least 2 Farad per 1 KW (I used a 5 Farad cap for my 2000W RMS system).

Follow those steps and you'll be very well off. If you're running a substantial amount of power (over 1.5KW RMS) I'd advise looking into upgrading the alternator (the third of the "big three") before you add the cap.


james you have a sick ass system my man, i checked out your sounddomain joun. id love to see that in person sometime over winterbreak bud.
-steve
If it means anything at all, I'm currently running around 500-600W RMS in my Supra and not using a cap. My results have been fine.

Take care,

-James

[theprodigy79]

Here's my set up:

Kenwood KFC-P707 6.5" Front Component Speakers (65w/280w)
Kenwood KFC-6990ie 6x9 Rear Speakers (80w/350W)
Kenwood T-207 Component Tweeters (130w/280w)
Pair of Kenwood KFC-W3514DVC 12" Subs (380w/1500w)
Kenwood KAC-9103D Mono Amp
Kenwood KAC-8403 4/3/2 Channel Amp
Kenwood DDX-7019 DVD/TV/CD Receiver

Any suggestions would help.

Depending on how you have your subs wired, you'll be / you are pushing somewhere between 740 - 1140W RMS. To be honest, I'd hold back on the alternator for now and put your money toward upgrading your battery and grounding wire, then go for sound deadening. The best way to kill the rattling is to stuff some poly fill (the sh!t you get to stuff pillows at Walmart or any art/craft store) or similar material and shove it between your rear deck tray and the rear baffle when you have it apart to swap in your speakers (or take it apart again if you've already installed the speakers).

-James