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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - amp problem
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amp problem

amp problem

Postby trdkamuri51o » Sat Nov 13, 2004 9:50 pm

haha okay make fun of me im on the cheap side at the moment

i got a boss rip 1000w amp for my car to push my audiobahn 12's anyways for some reason the amp seems to be cutting in and out. its basic readout is a power needle and a red/green light for well if it works or not. it was running fine for about 3 weeks but recently it cuts out whenever it hits. im thinking its either a bad grounding point or im just not getting enough juice through my 8g power wire. anyone care to help me troubleshoot?
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Postby Duffman » Sun Nov 14, 2004 8:32 pm

1000 watts on 8-ga. wire?!

Use 4-ga. for it, and make sure your ground is also secure. Those both sound like culprits... though the ground is most likely at fault.

Regardless, step up to 4-ga. wire so you don't set something (yourself) on fire.
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Postby krawzyazn » Sun Nov 14, 2004 10:11 pm

2 ga power and 0 ga ground
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Postby HKSV6SLE » Mon Nov 15, 2004 12:43 am

at least 2 or 0 gauge wire....
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Postby trdkamuri51o » Mon Nov 15, 2004 8:11 pm

krawzyazn wrote:2 ga power and 0 ga ground




yeah where would i run that 0 gauge wire thru???

i thought about it, but i already ordered 4 gauge wire and a fuse breaker.

next is a cap. all this run off the stock HU.
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Postby ZXLNT » Tue Nov 16, 2004 5:50 am

That boss amp probably isn't 1000 true watts, either RMS or peak, so 4 ga will probably work. And you can run it on the drivers side of the firewall up top back behind/near the brake master cylinder. My 99 auto had a plug there where I ran the 1/0 gauge wire through. Oh and wont need a cap, thats just something else to charge. Get a big battery an a hi-output alternator....
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Postby Duffman » Tue Nov 16, 2004 8:16 am

I ran my 4-ga. from the battery, snaked around the air filter to the back of the engine bay, over to the right side and through that rubber grommet where a bunch of wires go (carefully use a pocket knife to poke a hole and just push it thru). You can pull your carpet back just a little under the glove box, don't need to remove the box or anything to get the wire. From there I ran it under the carpet on the right side near the doors through the bottom of the back seat and into my trunk. Was a hassle trying to get it to look like it wasn't there, larger wires bulge you know, but in the end it came out looking good. I ran the RCA inputs on the left side, and that was a hundred times easier to hide.

My next question is... why are you running it from the stock head unit? You'll get better sound from an aftermarket, and you can find a GOOD Alpine on eBay that'll give you 3 preamp outputs and changer control and MP3 playback for around $250. Worth every penny... I'm running my old Alpine CDA-7892 from my 91 Camry to Alpine Type R speakers and a "bass on a budget" Scosche 250-watt amplifier and a Sony 12" sub. Wanting to eventually get a pair of 550-watt Alpine amps... don't remember the exact code, think it's like MRD-501 or something... and a pair of 12" DVC subs.

But yeah, long story short, the wiring and head unit will make a big difference... and the wiring is a safety concern with that much potential power.
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Postby SleeperSolara » Wed Nov 17, 2004 8:56 am

Yeah you should've used a 4 guage kit.
8 guage is too small for a 1000 watt amp.
A cap would help also.
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Postby ZXLNT » Thu Nov 18, 2004 4:28 am

A cap is only going to add more load to the alternator to charge. Best bet would be to get a HO alternator to provide more current for the electrical system..
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Postby SleeperSolara » Thu Nov 18, 2004 9:37 am

ZXLNT wrote:A cap is only going to add more load to the alternator to charge. Best bet would be to get a HO alternator to provide more current for the electrical system..


Actually the Cap take alittle to charge up.
The cap charges up very quick.
But you could get a slightly bigger alternator, if you want.
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Postby whiteflash » Thu Nov 18, 2004 7:38 pm

i have two amps in my car runnin off a rockford fosgate cap until a month ago when my sub stopped working but the amp to my speakers still work, the amp gets power but the capactior stay ice cold, do u guys think its the cap?
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Postby pro956 » Thu Nov 18, 2004 8:16 pm

okay, don't listen to most of these responses

with that amp, you'd be fine with 10gauge wiring

it does no where NEAR 1000w rms

check the ground, make sure it didn't loosen
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Postby SleeperSolara » Fri Nov 19, 2004 8:51 am

pro956 wrote:okay, don't listen to most of these responses

with that amp, you'd be fine with 10gauge wiring

it does no where NEAR 1000w rms

check the ground, make sure it didn't loosen


What you trying to say man, if he is runnin' 1000 watts.
He needs either 4 guage or 2/1/0 guages wire.
10 guages is power robbing.
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Postby SleeperSolara » Fri Nov 19, 2004 8:52 am

whiteflash wrote:i have two amps in my car runnin off a rockford fosgate cap until a month ago when my sub stopped working but the amp to my speakers still work, the amp gets power but the capactior stay ice cold, do u guys think its the cap?


How much power is runnin' the 2 amps??
How much is the power for your cap??
Cap in example: .5 farad, 1 farad, 1 and up.
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Postby pro956 » Fri Nov 19, 2004 1:03 pm

SleeperSolara wrote:
pro956 wrote:okay, don't listen to most of these responses

with that amp, you'd be fine with 10gauge wiring

it does no where NEAR 1000w rms

check the ground, make sure it didn't loosen


What you trying to say man, if he is runnin' 1000 watts.
He needs either 4 guage or 2/1/0 guages wire.
10 guages is power robbing.


go away, you know nothing about car audio

he doesn't have a jl 1000watt amp, he doesn't have a tru tech 1000watt amp
he has a peice of sh!t, bull sh!t rating, crapy ass amp that does no where near 1000w rms at 13.8volts even at extreme levels of distortion

plz don't give advice when you don't know what you're talking about

poster, please post your model number as well next time...
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