I've done it! I have found our ideal soundstage for Lara!
After weeks of researching and experimenting I have found the ideal sound stage for our laras. Now the end result may be quite simple, but the process to arrive there was not. Basically, you need an amp that can high pass all the way up to 5k Hz on 2 channels, and then bandpass on the other 2 channels. Just this alone took me awhile to find until I found an a/d/s/ P640.2 on craigslist for a steal.
I did this using the Sony XS-GTX1620s components and a pair of Polk Audio db1000. As you can see this is a budget set up, but sounds fantastic.
Anyway, here is how you set it up.
1) Throw away all the passive crossovers. The amp will be taking car of all the high and low pass frequencies. (As you can see we're going for an active set up). If you do not have an amp that has the capabilities that I stated, then you can always get an external active crossover. It's just cheaper if you can find an amp that can high pass and band pass.
2) Mount the sony component mids in stock location, use the polk db1000 tweeters for the stock tweeter location.
3) Here's the tricky (or really not so tricky) part, the sony tweeters (that came with the components) will be mounted right on the A-pillar just on top of the dash in the corner where the dash, A-pillar and windshield meet; You don't even need to use any of the brackets, although I did use an angle bracket that fits very nicely. The wire can be stuffed very nicely in the A-pillar. Just from the A-pillar and windshield "gripping" the speaker wire, I didn't even use any double sided foam tape or screws to attach the tweets, they sit there firmly just fine. Now wire the polk tweeters and the sony tweeters in parallel to the amplifier. Here's the trick, wire the sony tweeters out of phase with the polk audio tweeters. That is to say, reverse the polarity (I will explain why below).
Now you're wondering why I have everything set up this way. The tweeters are mounted pointed to each other whilst reflecting off the windshield to raise and expand the sound stage and to set it where it's supposed to be, in front of you, like in a classical concert.
Why did I wire the dash tweeters out of phase? You'll notice that the distance between you and the stock tweeter location is much closer than you and the dash tweeter. By wiring out of phase, we are compensating for the difference in the path length that the sound has to travel. Of course this can be avoided by using time alignment, etc. etc. but I'm on a budget, and this sounds very good already.
The accuracy of sound is maintained with the use of the polk tweeters in the stock tweeter locations.
To sum up, two pairs of tweeters, each side wired in parallel (amp will see 2 ohms if both the tweets are 4 ohms apiece), with the dash tweeter (located where the dash, A-pillar, and windshield meet) wired out of phase and pointed to each other, reflecting off the windshield.
This is the best way to achieve accuracy and proper sound stage. Trust me I've tried everything, and by everything, I mean everything.
You guys can sound demo my car if I happen to make it to the SoCal meet.
I will be adding a third set of tweets for more complete fill and soundstage and then figuring out very precise pointing to see if I can avoid the rainbow effect. As of now, time alignment may be the only way to avoid it.
Pics and a diagram to come later.
edit: Clarified some points that could have been misinterpreted now that I read it again.
I did this using the Sony XS-GTX1620s components and a pair of Polk Audio db1000. As you can see this is a budget set up, but sounds fantastic.
Anyway, here is how you set it up.
1) Throw away all the passive crossovers. The amp will be taking car of all the high and low pass frequencies. (As you can see we're going for an active set up). If you do not have an amp that has the capabilities that I stated, then you can always get an external active crossover. It's just cheaper if you can find an amp that can high pass and band pass.
2) Mount the sony component mids in stock location, use the polk db1000 tweeters for the stock tweeter location.
3) Here's the tricky (or really not so tricky) part, the sony tweeters (that came with the components) will be mounted right on the A-pillar just on top of the dash in the corner where the dash, A-pillar and windshield meet; You don't even need to use any of the brackets, although I did use an angle bracket that fits very nicely. The wire can be stuffed very nicely in the A-pillar. Just from the A-pillar and windshield "gripping" the speaker wire, I didn't even use any double sided foam tape or screws to attach the tweets, they sit there firmly just fine. Now wire the polk tweeters and the sony tweeters in parallel to the amplifier. Here's the trick, wire the sony tweeters out of phase with the polk audio tweeters. That is to say, reverse the polarity (I will explain why below).
Now you're wondering why I have everything set up this way. The tweeters are mounted pointed to each other whilst reflecting off the windshield to raise and expand the sound stage and to set it where it's supposed to be, in front of you, like in a classical concert.
Why did I wire the dash tweeters out of phase? You'll notice that the distance between you and the stock tweeter location is much closer than you and the dash tweeter. By wiring out of phase, we are compensating for the difference in the path length that the sound has to travel. Of course this can be avoided by using time alignment, etc. etc. but I'm on a budget, and this sounds very good already.
The accuracy of sound is maintained with the use of the polk tweeters in the stock tweeter locations.
To sum up, two pairs of tweeters, each side wired in parallel (amp will see 2 ohms if both the tweets are 4 ohms apiece), with the dash tweeter (located where the dash, A-pillar, and windshield meet) wired out of phase and pointed to each other, reflecting off the windshield.
This is the best way to achieve accuracy and proper sound stage. Trust me I've tried everything, and by everything, I mean everything.
You guys can sound demo my car if I happen to make it to the SoCal meet.
I will be adding a third set of tweets for more complete fill and soundstage and then figuring out very precise pointing to see if I can avoid the rainbow effect. As of now, time alignment may be the only way to avoid it.
Pics and a diagram to come later.

edit: Clarified some points that could have been misinterpreted now that I read it again.
Last edited by MisterTedster on Sat Feb 20, 2010 1:45 am, edited 2 times in total.
02 SE V6
TRD FSB, TRD RSB, Dual TRD Mufflers, Eibach Springs, KYB Struts, OBX SRI, Fujita F5 Filter
TRD FSB, TRD RSB, Dual TRD Mufflers, Eibach Springs, KYB Struts, OBX SRI, Fujita F5 Filter
- MisterTedster
- SolaraGuy Driver
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- Joined: Fri Oct 09, 2009 3:21 pm
- Location: Pasadena, CA