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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - Active versus Passive Crossover
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Active versus Passive Crossover

Active versus Passive Crossover

Postby Jackass-Jeff » Tue Jul 12, 2005 7:20 pm

So ya... I've read all I could on Active vs Passive crossovers... so now, the time to apply the knowledge as come along. Currently, I've found the proper XO settings on my headunit but still have the passive HEX XO running the components. I'm thinking of hocking my rear HEX set and just setting up a proper front stage w/ rear fill (mini subs?).

Anyone out there a tuning guru? :D
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Postby cam2Xrunner » Tue Jul 12, 2005 8:24 pm

Now you're thinking!!!

If you got the capable processing, and amplification, plus good speakers, you're basically "bottlenecking" it by using the passive crossovers in your component set.

I don't have any hands on experience with the cd8454 or the Hex components, so can't help you much there.

I would start the crossover for the tweeters around 4kHz, then adjust down from there and see where they start to break up. I would guess it
should be somewhere around 3.2kHz. The mids shouldn't play under 65hz to 85 hz. or above 4khz.

You're also going to have to figure out which slopes to use.

You'll have to see what sounds best to your ears.

Be sure to make sure the gains are properly set you you aren't clipping any of the speakers.

This info you probably already know, but run the front rca's to the front channels of the amp, to control the tweeters, and the rears to the mids.

You should make a post on ECA, and see if some experts can give some good info.
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Postby Jackass-Jeff » Tue Jul 12, 2005 8:31 pm

I'm gonna post a week before I start disassemling the car =P Gonna take a week off of work for the project. This is gonna be fun!
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Postby Vampire » Tue Jul 12, 2005 10:50 pm

Keep us informed! I have the Eclipse 8455 I received as a Father's Day present and I probably have the same thoughts as you. I am guessing that I still have like 5 stages yet to do before I start feeling good about the system like, damping, better tweeter placement, better front set components, mid ranges in the kicks, active crossovers ...

Good Luck!!

Jackass-Jeff wrote:I'm gonna post a week before I start disassemling the car =P Gonna take a week off of work for the project. This is gonna be fun!
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Postby B_Master_Flash » Wed Jul 13, 2005 2:04 am

can't say I'm a tuning guru, but let us know how it turns out, sounds like a good setup
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Postby Jackass-Jeff » Wed Jul 13, 2005 7:26 am

I'll probably end up w/ 1 more amp to power the tweeters and use my current 4 channel for the 6.5 from the HEX and run it w/ the mid-bass part of the HEX system over the passive crossover... unless there's a way I can run that many cables. The headunit has 3 sets of Preouts for highs, mids and sub...

so no one here is running active? =P
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Postby cam2Xrunner » Wed Jul 13, 2005 10:34 am

That idea doesn't seem feasible. I don't quite understand what exactly you are going to be doing.

The midbass/subs should be on it's own channels than the front mids. Use your 4 channel amp strictly for the front comonents. Front channels of the amp to the tweeters, rear channels to the mids.

You can add a 2 channel amp for your tweeters and use the rear channels of the amp to some bass, but you wouldn't want to use the passive crossovers.

What kind of subs were you planning on using?
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Postby Jackass-Jeff » Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:10 pm

cam2Xrunner wrote:That idea doesn't seem feasible. I don't quite understand what exactly you are going to be doing.

The midbass/subs should be on it's own channels than the front mids. Use your 4 channel amp strictly for the front comonents. Front channels of the amp to the tweeters, rear channels to the mids.

You can add a 2 channel amp for your tweeters and use the rear channels of the amp to some bass, but you wouldn't want to use the passive crossovers.

What kind of subs were you planning on using?


Right now I have a 4Ch amp. Front dedicated to a set of HEX and rear dedicated to a 2nd set of HEX. Upon rewiring, I was thinking 4Ch for 6.5 from HEX and an addition mid bass driver that was an option to the HEX set. The 2Ch amp would be dedicated to drive the tweeters. Now that I think of it, I should just use 2 tweeters and 2 mid range speakers huh?

I'll be sticking to my Eclipse Aluminum 10" DVC =] I want to spend pennies on it. It's my project so I don't go out to spend more money... I'm on a $150-200/week splurge mode as of recent... not good!
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Postby cam2Xrunner » Wed Jul 13, 2005 1:03 pm

Yeah I would just use what you got now. You will notice a difference in how those front's are going to sound. They will really come alive with the added power.

Try this. Instead of powering the rear speakers with the amp too, bridge the amp into two channels just to the front components. Right off the back you are going to notice a great improvement.

Now ditch the passive crossovers and wire them active. It only gets better.

You now have control over the time alignment over the tweeters to the mids. You can also set the crossover points where it sounds best to you in your vehicle.

Take out the rear speakers and leave the holes open. You'll notice you now get more bass. When tuning the mids what you want to do is try to get them to play as low as possible without distortion or break up. This will bring the soundstage more forward and make the sub harder to locate. It will make it seem like the sub is not mounted in the trunk, but it's also coming from the front of the car.

You want to try and have a high soundstage. When tuning the front speakers the goal is to create a soundstage on your hood. It should sound like the music is coming from the front of the car, high on the dash.

Have you deadened your doors yet? THis will help alot if you haven't. Also where are your tweeters mounted. You might get good results by mounting them in the A Pillar a few inches above the highest point on the dash. The tweeters should be fcing each other. In some cases pointed slighlty towards the windshield. Every car/speaker/listener will vary.

If you don't have a Dash Mat yet, consider getting one. You might not like the way it looks, but it will make an improvement in the sound. It helps by having one less surface to cause reflections.

You got really good equipment I would just work with what you have. A three way front setup can be very difficult to tune properly. A 2 way setup can be really good when wired active.
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Postby Vampire » Wed Jul 13, 2005 2:44 pm

Interesting. I was going to use my HU amp to power the front tweeters. The front 2 channels of the 4 channel amp (75x2) to power the mids in the doors and bridge the rear 2 channels (250x1) for the sub and evaluate from there. I would use the active crossover in the Eclipse to run the 3 channel setup. Any thoughts? BTW, removing my old 6x9's in the rear deck made a noticeable difference in bass but I need to dampen to get rid of those road vibration noises.
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Postby Jackass-Jeff » Wed Jul 13, 2005 2:55 pm

Vampire wrote:Interesting. I was going to use my HU amp to power the front tweeters. The front 2 channels of the 4 channel amp (75x2) to power the mids in the doors and bridge the rear 2 channels (250x1) for the sub and evaluate from there. I would use the active crossover in the Eclipse to run the 3 channel setup. Any thoughts? BTW, removing my old 6x9's in the rear deck made a noticeable difference in bass but I need to dampen to get rid of those road vibration noises.


Which sub are you planning to underpower? =P I may switch from my 2 aluminums to 1 titanium.
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Postby Vampire » Wed Jul 13, 2005 3:08 pm

Good one! I have an old Infinity Perfect 10 in a Q logic sub box. Funny thing is that I have sub the channel attenuated -10db on the Eclipse unit or it overpowers the front components. I know the stuff is not so good but since I now have the Eclipse, it's time to do some upgrading of probably all the components. First things first though, I need to do some serious damping then attack each area systematically. The good thing is I am a patient guy ;)
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Postby cam2Xrunner » Wed Jul 13, 2005 3:31 pm

Vampire wrote:Interesting. I was going to use my HU amp to power the front tweeters. The front 2 channels of the 4 channel amp (75x2) to power the mids in the doors and bridge the rear 2 channels (250x1) for the sub and evaluate from there. I would use the active crossover in the Eclipse to run the 3 channel setup. Any thoughts? BTW, removing my old 6x9's in the rear deck made a noticeable difference in bass but I need to dampen to get rid of those road vibration noises.


That actually might not sound bad at all. What kind of speakers do you have? What amp were you using to power the sub before?
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Postby Vampire » Wed Jul 13, 2005 3:43 pm

I have a 3 yr old set of Focal 165K's in the front but the tweets are killing my ears due to harshness even though I have the tweets attenuated -4db at the crossover. Could be install since it's in the stock door locations. I also have a 3 yr old PG 500ti. 75x4 or 250x2 bridged. I think it's enough to get me started on the evaluation process.
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Postby Jackass-Jeff » Wed Jul 13, 2005 5:30 pm

Silk tweeters are the way to go if they are reputable (I love my silk tweets). That way you may sure they have a nice range while sounding nice!

It only becomes harsh if you are playing music that accents highs @ (eclipse) volumes of 70+ (44 being a typical mid-volume level, 90 max)
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