speaker sizes

[bparker]

I have an 02 se w/ JBL and I'm replacing the stock speakers/amp. I wanted to verify the size of the stock equipment. According to crutchfield the sizes for front are 6 3/4 and rear 6x9. Can someone verify this? Also what size are the tweeters? 3/4 or 1"? (also what about the rear ones). Is there a place I can get brackets from to accept a different size? If so where. Thanks.

[xsolara33x]

fronts are 6.5 rears are 6 x 9... dont know bout tweeters... i think my type rs are 1"... you can buy the bracket adapters from crutchfield or sounddomain...
raphael

[Jackass-Jeff]

I have an 02 se w/ JBL and I'm replacing the stock speakers/amp. I wanted to verify the size of the stock equipment. According to crutchfield the sizes for front are 6 3/4 and rear 6x9. Can someone verify this? Also what size are the tweeters? 3/4 or 1"? (also what about the rear ones). Is there a place I can get brackets from to accept a different size? If so where. Thanks.

Front are 6.5 (6 3/4 "fitment" which is still a 6.5" speaker)

Tweeters are 1 inch (flush fit w/ my 1 inch tweeter...)

Rear are POS 6x9

[bparker]

how are you guys running power for the tweeters? I plan on using speakers that will take upto 130rms, but I still have no idea how I need to power the tweeters

[Jackass-Jeff]

how are you guys running power for the tweeters? I plan on using speakers that will take upto 130rms, but I still have no idea how I need to power the tweeters

If you get a set of components, there will be a "CROSSOVER" that you connect to amp to...

Speaker and tweeter <-Left Crossover <-|AMP| -> Right Crossover -> Speaker and Tweeter

[bparker]

well yes, that will take care of feeding it the right frequency, but won't do anything with power, right? I don't want to feed 100-130 watts rms to my speakers only to blow the tweeters.

[Jackass-Jeff]

the power from the amp goes to the crossover where the signal is split... in turn, i guess you can say, t he crossover is powering the tweeter.

One channel of the amp is "LEFT FRONT" another is "RIGHT FRONT" then "LEFT REAR" and "RIGHT REAR"

Left front meaning the set in the left front channel...

if you still don't know what i'm talking about, take your car to a professional install shop... you don't want to blow up your car

[bparker]

I understand what you're talking about. So, using this crossover, how much power will then be put into both the speaker and tweeter if I'm outputting say, 100 watts rms to all 4 channels

[Jackass-Jeff]

the power isnt equally divided. it's sent to the woofer/tweeter as needed =P

100 RMS total / 4 CHannel = 25 RMS watts per channel.

So 25 watts RMS will be entering the crossover and being diverted as needed...

We'd all have blown equipment if it didn't work this way =P

The only way to blow it is if you DON'T use a crossover...

[bparker]

I didn't mean 100 watts rms total, I meant 100 watts rms to EACH of the 4 channels, as in 400 watts total. Wouldn't that be too much for a tweeter? Only the most expensive one I could find would handle 100 watts rms. How is this dealt with since most people don't have a 100watt tweeter, and you're outputting that much to each channel, with a crossover on it?

[Jackass-Jeff]

Tell me the amp model...

My amp specs are:

200W × 4 Channel Max. Power Output at 2
120W × 4 Channel 0.1% THD at 2 Stereo, 20–20,000Hz@13.8V
(RMS Continuous Power)
85W × 4 Channel 0.1% THD at 4 Stereo, 20–20,000Hz@13.8V
(RMS Continuous Power)
ChannelFlex Crossover
High-Pass Crossover (12dB/octave, 120Hz)
Adjustable Low-Pass Crossover (12dB/octave, 50–200Hz)
Adjustable Pre-Out High-Pass Crossover (12dB/octave, 50–200Hz)
Subsonic Filter (0–50Hz)
Free-Flow Signal Circuit
Double-Sided PCB
High-Current, High-Speed Output Devices
High-Efficiency, High-Energy MOSFET Power Supply
Audiophile Grade Component Selection
Intelligent 7-Way Discrete Protection Circuitry
Music Reproduction with Low Distortion & Ultra-Low Negative Feedback
Efficient Cooling with Low-Profile Heatsink
Multi-Mode Configuration
Stereo/Mono Switch
2 Stable Design

Speakers (2 sets, 1 front, 1 rear) are:

Silk Dome Tweaters
kevlar/nomex cone

Type: Component
Size: 6 in.inch Mid 1 in.inch Tweet
Power Handling NOM/MAX: 150/300 watts
Sensitivity (2.83V/1m): 91 dB SPL
Freq. Response: 42-24
Mounting Depth/Diameter: 2.3 in. / 5.4 in.

[bparker]

This is what I'm looking at getting (do I really need 6 1/2 or 6 3/4?):

FRONT:
Infinity Kappa 60.5cs
Component Speaker System
* Size: 6 1/2
* Sensitivity: 90 dB
* Frequency Response: 45-21,000 Hz
* Recommended RMS Power: 90W
* Peak Power Handling: 270W
* Impedance: 4 ohms

REAR:
MB Quart Reference RCE269
6"x9" component speaker system
» 6"x9" polypropylene woofer with rubber surround
» 3/4" titanium dome tweeter with composite surround
» surface-, flush-, or coaxial-mounting options
» composite ABS/fiberglass basket
» outboard 2-way crossover (3,900 Hz at 12 db per octave) with 4-level output adjustment
» grilles included
» frequency response 32-32,000 Hz
» power range 80-150 watts RMS
» sensitivity 86 dB
» top-mount depth 3-1/4"
» warranty: 1 year

SUB:
Alpine Type-R SWR-1242D (12" DVC, 500W RMS)
# Bumped Backplate
# Compound Radius Curve Pole Geometry
# Custom Cast Aluminum Frame with Integrated Heat Transfer Plate
# Designed and Engineered in the USA
# Dual Progressive Oversized Nomex® Spiders
# Dual Stacked Magnets
# Dual Voice Coil Design
# Extra Length Extended Pole
# Flared Pole Vent
# High Strength Brass Voice Coil Bobbin
# Integrated Tinsel Lead Design
# Kevlar Reinforced Pulp Cone
# Magnetically Optimized Motor Structure (Pat. Pend.)
# Oversized Parabolic Dustcap
# Diaphragm Material : Kevlar Reinforced Pulp
# Spider Material : Nomex
# Power Handling Capacity (Peak) : 1500W
# Power Handling Capacity (RMS) : 500W

SUB AMP:
Sony XM-D500X
250W x 1 mono subwoofer amplifier
» 250 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
» 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
» 2-ohm stable
» Class D design
» variable low-pass filter (50-300 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
» variable bass boost (0-10 dB centered at 40 Hz)
» speaker- and preamp-level inputs
» preamp outputs
» gold-plated connectors
» requires a 4-gauge wiring kit — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
» 15-5/16"W x 2-1/16"H x 10-9/16"D
» warranty: 1 year

SPEAKER AMP:
Audiobahn A4004T
50W x 4 Car Amplifier
» 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms
» 100 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms
» 200 watts RMS x 2 bridged output
» 4-, 3-, or 2-channel operation
» Tri-way capable (Tri-Way Crossover required)
» MOSFET power supply
» requires 8-gauge power and ground leads — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
» two 20-amp fuses
» 50-750 Hz high-pass/50-120 Hz low-pass crossover, 18 dB/octave
» separate, selectable bass boosts on front and rear channels (+18 dB at 50 Hz)
» variable (20-50 Hz) subsonic filter
» cooling fan
» cobalt blue illumination
» speaker- and preamp-level inputs
» 11-5/16"W x 2-7/16"H x 11-3/4"D
» 1-year warranty

[Jackass-Jeff]

It looks like 50 watts per channel RMS @ 4 OHMs... you're fine.

[bparker]

would you recommend accomodating to get more than 50 watts for the speakers? or do you think it's enough

[Jackass-Jeff]

would you recommend accomodating to get more than 50 watts for the speakers? or do you think it's enough

I say if you want to play it loud a lot ... then underpowering is better because it won't blow the speakers

Wortown solara has a different take... he'd overpower the speakers so the amp doesn't have to work as hard.

Usually more power = more clearity (not louder) so it's up to you.

It should be enough... if you haven't opened up the amp yet and it's easily returnable... go exchange it for a slightly higher powered amp... otherwise, you should be fine. It's not a HUGE difference... but it's enough for anal people to notice