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SolaraGuy.com • View topic - what speaker brands are best and what sizes do we have
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what speaker brands are best and what sizes do we have

Postby i20solara02i » Sun Aug 29, 2004 12:26 am

Blackie wrote:
xRAVExBoIx wrote:Just get a decent headunit and add a amp/sub. It helps with clearity either way! If you add a sub to the stock headunit, it will sound like butt (only sounds good with Hondas, since they have so many options for adding subs to a stock headunit, we dont).


wouldnt a high/low converter help him out there?


stock headunit with sub sound like ass
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Postby cam2Xrunner » Sun Aug 29, 2004 12:28 am

I believe you have 6 1/2" speakers up front as well as the rear deck. If your interested I'm selling my Infinity Kappa Perfects for 165.00 They're about 6 mos old and have been run off a jl 300/4 amp which is 75watts rms.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-9f6x0e1ygi ... =Y&search=

Image

Id reccomend getting a 5 channel amp to run your whole sytem. And 1 12" SQ sub will help round out the system. Some good SQ subs and speakers are, Image Dynamics ID or IDQ subs, ID chameleon components, Infinty Kappa Perfect subs and components, focal, Arc Audio subs(pretty much better IDQ's), rainbow, dynadio, high end alpine stuff...

With 300 bucks it would be hard to get a 4channel amp and 4 quality speakers, And the front speakers are components and are usually more. You dont necessarily have to get a new deck but it would help to sound better. Plus you could run rca's instead of speaker level input to the amps.

http://www.acaraudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_34&products_id=1243
or
http://www.acaraudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_34&products_id=1135

would be good 4 channel amps. I'd buy a decent set of components for around 150 bucks and run only front speakers until you're ready to get some rear fill. You might even like the sound better of having only a front stage. If you did you can bridge the other two channels to one decent SQ sub.
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Postby Jon11582 » Sun Aug 29, 2004 6:45 am

6.5 fronts, 6x9 rears, for sure in gen 1/1.5. Its 6x9s all around for Gen2.

I swapped mine out my crappy ones for stock JBLs since I got em cheap. I dont think new speakers will do much good with the stock non-JBL HU because of the weakness of the internal amp, but Im not too sure how much that amp puts out. I didnt really notice a diff in sound qual until I swapped out my HU.
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Postby SolaraT » Sun Aug 29, 2004 11:53 am

RCA addapters that connect to the 4 way amp and then the amp to the new speakers.

Recomend 4 - 3 way speakers.

I got Alpine components in the front and alpine 2 way in the rear.
I like deep sound so it is up to you.

Also get an amp kit to connect your amp. You don't want a very high powered amp just enough to kick it up a noch!
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Postby mtodde » Sun Aug 29, 2004 3:47 pm

Most Hi-Fi Buys still have rooms where you can hear the speakers rather than an open air environment. You won't get the cheapest price there, but you can at least do some comparisons and see what each speakers voice is like. Keep in mind that their cheapest head unit is probably better than the stock non-JBL...I'd try your favorite with mulitple head units just to see if you are happy.

Those Infinity Perfects for sale are probably ideal for the front. You could go with an Infinity Perfect 6x9 for the rear or the Kappa like I just bought (and need to install). While everyone's ear is different, I prefer a 2 way in the rear rather than a 3 way...in this case beauty is in the ear of the beholder.
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Postby SolaraT » Sun Aug 29, 2004 3:52 pm

Sure! This was hard to install but it can be done. The entire rear panels need to be removed. Literally. The same way to install the rear struts. I recommend that when you install your rear struts you tell your installer to leave all the rear panels off. That will save you time and all you would have to do is reinstall them.

Drilling new holes for the new speakers in the rear deck and the door is required.

6x9 rear and 6 1/2 or 6 3/4 will work. I got 6 3/4 in there.

If you want to hear my set-up let me know. I like it. I push 27 watts RMS x 4.

Here is my recommendation for you to stay within $300.00
These prices are higher you can find them lower at etronics.com
These prices are from crutchfield.com

AMP > CLARION APA450 50W X 4 RMS!!!!! $119.99
Image http://www.crutchfield.com/S-BDe7SIxt7j ... =Y&search=

SPEAKERS
REAR $129.99
6X9 PIONEER 4WAY TS-A6980R CAN HANDEL UPTO 80W RMS EACH
Image
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-BDe7SIxt7j ... =Y&search=

FRONT $99.99
6 3/4 PIONEER 4WAY TS-A1680R
Image
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-BDe7SIxt7j ... =Y&search=

AMP WIREING KIT $29.99
Rockford Fosgate CP8PO
8-gauge Amplifier Wiring Kit
Image

FINALY an rca adapter and cables to allow your stock head unit to transmit sound to the new amp. $20.00 at most for both at Wal-Mart. Best Buy is not the Best Buy.

If you can do it yourself then it won’t cost you for installation. Installation can range from $80 - $150 depending on were you go.

Total w/out installation: $397
Total w/installation: well just add $80 - $150 on top of that.

Like I said. You can find these items and stay at the $300 mark shopping elsewhere. Go to nextag.com to compare the products and find the best online deal.

Good Luck!

Remember, I can install all these for you for $50.00 ;-)
Only because it is time consuming and back breaking.
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Postby Jon11582 » Sun Aug 29, 2004 9:28 pm

solarat wrote:Drilling new holes for the new speakers in the rear deck and the door is required.


Drilling wasnt necessary to replace the rear speakers, but its quite some work to get the rear panel off. Im not 100% sure, but I think most aftermarket 6x9s have the same mounting pattern as the stock speakers. Drilling was necessary to replace the front speakers, which I never built up the courage to do.(The crutchfield walkthrough states you need to drill for the fronts, but doesnt say anything about drilling for the rears).

To give you an idea of how much needs to be done to get to the rear speakers, the first step is removing the front seatbelts...
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Postby SolaraT » Mon Aug 30, 2004 4:42 am

It depends on the speakers you get cause my Alpine's did not line up with the factory holes in the rear or the font.
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Postby Duffman » Mon Aug 30, 2004 5:53 am

Yeah, the rear needs drilling for regular 6x9 speakers - there's three holes, and they're spaced kinda far away from the hole (for the bracket that the JBLs came in - might be different for non-JBL cars). And yes, it does involve taking apart most of your back paneling, but once you've done it, it's not a problem.

The front doors are supposedly a major bee0tch, but I haven't tried it yet. Don't be afraid of drilling, or of taking things apart (unless you have a real bad temper). Just take a day where you have nothing else to do, get your stuff (and figure out *everything* you'll need in advance - are you getting Dynamat? baffles? Crossovers?) and take your time. It's ten times harder to do stuff like that if you let it intimidate you. My '91 Camry scared the crap out of me when I tried to change out the front speakers - it involved taking off both of the front dash pieces. I was doing the "sound on a budget" thing at the time, so I changed things out several times (3 1/2" speakers are weak). It got to where I could take those panels out easy.
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Postby SolaraT » Mon Aug 30, 2004 1:22 pm

Yeah he has the Non JBL system just like I had.

Another question since we are on the topic. Did everyone solder or use connectors to install their system? I used connectors and only cause I wanted it done quicker. I can now go back and solder but is it worth it? Will it sound different?

I'm sure Hari would want to know too.
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Postby solaraslev67 » Sat Sep 25, 2004 4:08 pm

i have the stock jbl speakers with a line driver and a 200x2 amp for the mids and highs and it sounds amazing, so loud, i made my friends ears bleed, amp was only 85 bucks and line driver was 80
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Re- Amp and Sub

Postby P Funky » Sat Sep 25, 2004 6:14 pm

hari_trivedi wrote:my budget is about 250-300 tops. i can do the install myself with the help of a friend. do you think i should buy a separate amp as well and bypass the stock unit's amp? but keep in mind, im not really going for loudness, just clarity and crispness. and can anyone verify spkr sizes


This comes up a lot, and while I don't know much generally about cars (yet!), I try to keep up with audio a bit. This is what I've discovered as far as the "do-I-or-don't-I" question with a separate amp and/or subs:

Rather than (or at least aside from) just making it louder, the amp will also make the total sound more clear. It allows you to get the same overall volume, but with less "noise" and interference- with a good amp, your speakers will sound much better, even at a volume your parents can tolerate.

As far as subs, I totally understand the reluctance to add those, but they don't all have to be "window-shaking" monsters. For my own setup (right now the JBL's, but soon I'll probably do an all-alpine system, new HU, 4 speakers, amp, and sub) I'm going to do a 10" sub. At a reasonable volume it won't shake you out of your seat, but it will provide a nice bottom and depth to the sound that you don't know you're missing until you try it.

Don't be afraid to add those, just be aware that you don't have to go crazy. A little boost goes a long way.

And yes, speaker sizes are most def 6.5"/6x9"
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Postby HKSV6SLE » Sun Sep 26, 2004 1:51 am

getting a amp just to push your speakers will definetly improve the overall sound. use a 4 channel. also it is 6X9 in back and 6.5 in front. :drinking:
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