Transponder key questions - help with

[feniks]

Hello LaraNoober,

How did you make the dealer replace the ECU at their own expense (except labor)??

I have run into exact same trouble with being unable to program anymore new keys (nor delete all other codes).
when trying to program new transponder key, the Security LED never stops flashing at the end.

what is weird is that I did succeed once in adding another key ($15 ebay transponder blank) a year ago, but a few months later that key stopped working and I am back to my old ignition key and now unable to add anymore keys.

I am afraid the immobilizer went bad and now recognizes my former Master key as a Valet key (upon inserting the Security LED stays on for 1-3 secs before turning off)

My old ignition key (previous owner gave me only this one) is black and is cut to be a master key (opens all locks). It's an original Toyota key.
I know it is, because today I have ordered a new Master Key cut from dealer at $55+tax based on digital image by VIN (not a copy of my current key) and they both look exactly same, except the old one is worn out and is a little thinner on edges in some places.

Now I have old original key (no longer recognized as Master), ebay key at $15 which used to work (not anymore) and new key from dealer which I can't program.
Also I tried a procedure to erase all transponder codes from ECU and I cannot do this with my "master" key.

I love my newly acquired 2002 SLE. Bought at auction, but it came with NO KEY! I didn't think it was a big deal when I was bidding.

After being fleeced by an unscrupulous locksmith, I have one working key.

I took the car to the dealer to have another master key made. They were unable to program another key and informed me my key was a sub/valet - key.

My journey into transponder-key-hell has begun.

Over the past couple of weeks, I think I have read every post on here that has the word 'transponder' in it - seriously. Extremely informative - I have learned about programming keys, remotes, garage door openers and many other things. To no avail - I am still with one key.

My key will open all locks - doors, trunk, cubbie hole, and works in the ignition, but neither the dealer or myself has been able to use it successfully to program another key. The programming steps work good till the end when the security light never stops flashing.

I know about the difference in programming between master and sub keys.

So,

Question #1. Is there a difference between the cuts of master and sub keys? I read somewhere in here that could be a possibility.

And,

Question #2. Could I have a key that is cut to be a master - since it fits and turns in all locks, but is programmed to be a sub key?

This would explain my keys behavior.

I think if the trunk and glove box could tell the difference between the programmed master and sub keys, there would need to be transponder coils in those locks as well.


I have another appt with the dealer this weekend (24th) to have another ECU installed - at toyos expense - cept labor. I would like to know as much about my situation as possible to prevent another fleecing.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you

[esalwin]

A good locksmith can do the work for much less than the dealer does.

To find a good one, use angieslist.com, yelp.com, checkbook.org, or locatealocksmith.com.

For $165, an independent locksmith reprogrammed/reseeded my 2010 Corolla to use a new master key, a new valet key, and my existing valet key. The dealer had quoted me $400.

[feniks]

A good locksmith can do the work for much less than the dealer does.

To find a good one, use angieslist.com, yelp.com, checkbook.org, or locatealocksmith.com.

For $165, an independent locksmith reprogrammed/reseeded my 2010 Corolla to use a new master key, a new valet key, and my existing valet key. The dealer had quoted me $400.

the only problem is that older cars (before 2004) cannot be easily reseeded with a new Master Key unless professional electronics locksmith removes the ECU from the car, opens it up, attaches cables to ICU on system board and re-flashes it with a "virgin" state programming enabling auto-registration mode. price was same, but I removed the ECU myself and shipped it to such guy in Arizona to do that for me.
I honestly tried hiring a local locksmith (automotive electronics specialty) in New Jersey, but none of them kept up to the word and actually called back nor came (after one of them agreed to come). not to mention they wanted to charge me anywhere between $300-600 ... I guess it all depends on the state you are residing in.