Charging AC

[topnotch3478]

So, I've been without air conditioning in my 2001 Solara SE for about 2 years now and it's time to get the cold air back. I was wondering if you guys could give me some tips on how to go about recharging the system? I would have to drive to Illinois to get the r134a because Wisconsin prohibits the purchase of it here by an average consumer. I'm pretty sure it just needs more refrigerant. When I turn the air on, I can hear the compressor kick on often. I was wondering if it's worth fixing myself? From what I understand I just need the refrigerant and guage, and to make sure to hook it up to the low pressure side? Any help would be awesome! Thanks!!!

[02slera]

you can buy a can of refrigerant with a gauge attached to the hose and a charging chart on the back of the package, thats what i did, found it at advance auto parts or autozone i dont remember which, with engine running you charge via the gauge, you hook up to the larger diameter line near the firewall on the passenger side of the vehicle, there is a valve there to connect to, wear safty glasses, when i did mine the first time i removed the can from the valve the damn valve stuck and shot refrigerant back out at my face. you should be able to come up with info on this topic by using "Search".

[ThurzNite]

Have you vacuumed out the system? Better do it quick, there's a new refrigerant coming out, and the old ones will be taxed up the wazoo. Still available, just gonna be really really expensive.
Dr J

[Gregtrd]

refrigerant doesn't just run out, you have a leak somewhere in the system, just take it to a shop and get it done right.

[02slera]

If saving money is of interest, you can find the leak and possibly fix it. some recharge kits come with dye in the refrigerant, though i have read that the refrigerant will glow under black light without dye, anyway i bought a can of refrigerant that happened to have dye in it, after charging the system and running the ac for a couple days i could clearly see where the dye had leaked out at the compressor where a line was bolted up, i tightened the bolt, charged the system again, and the ac has worked great ever since (over a year now). i believe the car has a low pressure switch so if the refrigerant level gets dangerously low the compressor will not engage. my theory for not vacuuming the system down is very simple, the system was under positive pressure, a small leak let the pressure (refrigerant) escape, that does not mean that the system sucked in air, or not enough to really matter if the leak is small enough, simply that most of the refrigerant escaped. if you have the money, then take it to the shop, but im very happy i fixed mine myself. and just to be clear im no mechanic, but i do have a little part time experience with hvac in homes, the same basics apply to cars.
I should also note (for noobs) that if you are attempting to fix a leak in the system and you have to take anything loose anywhere, then the system MUST be vacuum pumped down to remove the air you let in before charging the system with refrigerant.
also in most cases i'd agree, just take it to a shop, what i did was risking causing damage to some expensive parts. maybe i just got lucky for once : /

[Gregtrd]

^^ no the difference is you have a good idea of what you're doing since you already work on ac system, I've never work in house ac but I'm ASE certified for auto, if you want your ac to work properly it has to be done right, the gauges that you buy at auto parts stores don't give actual onces/pounds that an ac system requires to operate properly, anyways to much info for me to type up take in to do it. right.

[02slera]

i dont dispute doing it "right" is better. and a shop would hopefully take the time to do it "right".
but i will say that alot of times, even if a system does not have a PERFECT charge, it will operate just fine. so the cheap gauge will get your charge close enough to work. it takes into account ambient temperature and head pressure. the risk is if your charge is too far off you could eventually damage the compressor.
btw im NOT going on with this thread to argue with Gregtrd, but simply to help provide more information on the topic.

[GreenSolara01]

I am against shops, I feel most are a rip off and a waste of time and money. If you want to do it “right” go to Harbor Freight, buy an ac vac they have a few to choose from, they also have a charger kit that is exactly what good shops would have. For about $50 in tools and another $50 for misc parts and 134a you can have super cold AC again. I would also recommend getting the fully synthetic 134 it works better and less likely to escape.

[ThurzNite]

I am against shops, I feel most are a rip off and a waste of time and money. If you want to do it “right” go to Harbor Freight, buy an ac vac they have a few to choose from, they also have a charger kit that is exactly what good shops would have. For about $50 in tools and another $50 for misc parts and 134a you can have super cold AC again. I would also recommend getting the fully synthetic 134 it works better and less likely to escape.

That's new to me, that harbor sells affordable AC vacuum pumps!
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum ... 96677.html

Wonder how good they are.

I haven't opened the FSM to check the specs, but isn't the system supposed to be charged using a weight scale?

Dr J

[Gregtrd]

^^Yup

[02slera]

any system that can be charged using a weight scale should be. simply because its easier, and you know you get a fool-proof correct charge.
such as cars where every solara has the same size interior and the same ducting the charge will be the same amount on every one.
or even a certain model refrigerator will have a spec amount of charge.
In a house we have to go by pressure and temperature because of differences in houses such as airflow and length of line set (copper tubes connecting indoor coil to outdoor compressor).
so its my personal belief that using pressure and temperature to charge a cars system can be effective.
bottom line is you dont want the pressure too high or too low.
also if anyone does do the diy method using these cheap gauges and stuff... the ac should run long enough atleast to get the coil wet (water dripping from under car) before accurate readings can be assumed. if its been running 5-10 min and water is dripping from under car and the vents are blowing cold AND then the pressures still look good, you might just be ok.
we just go back to the same old point... if it needs charge then it has a leak, so most of the time your better off taking it to a shop and letting them not only charge it, but fix the leak for you first. i got lucky with my car because the leak was a loose bolt at the compressor.