PO100...update, need HELP

[Akfahad]

Drove the car to work this morning, everything was fine. Started it up this afternoon to go home for lunch and as soon as I turned the key, CEL came on, car almost died, and idle is constantly up and down. Car now sounds throwtier and I checked to see if it was somewhat responsive, NOT AT ALL. Even when I boost, the car goes absolutely no where, not to mention the black smoke out of the exhaust (rich). Ran the code, pulled PO100 - MAF/VAF circuit malfunction. Figured it might need a cleaning, cleaned the MAF sensor and the throttle bottle since everything was off, but to no avail. Anybody have any other suggestions??

P.S. Damon, you still got that Supra TT MAF sensor available?! (fingers crossed)

[anwagbo3000]

could be head gaskets, or it could be a problem inside of the engine

i had a pontiac sunfire that was modded out, i did the same thing, started it up, it happened to be raining that day, all of a sudden i hit the gas and i hear a loud knock coming from my hood, luckily i had green lights, when i got home, it shut off.

next morning, everytime i tied to start it, it would have this loud throaty noise, like something was caught inside of throttle body, mechanic told me that it was a broken rocker arm, but this is a different car, so i hope you get back on the road as quickly and painless as possible..........later

[Eye8Pussies]

pick up a new maf from somewhere and give it a go...

an up and down idle can be a very clear symptom of a malfunctioning maf

good luckq

[Ruski]

Def get a new maf i had this problem on my dads Toyota sienna,

[Akfahad]

Got another MAF sensor, slapped it on with no luck. Still have the same problem. Took it the dealer, ran the code, computer is telling them to change the maf sensor. the tech already checked the wiring, everything is good on that part. I even put in the stock maf sensor with the same result, so I know it's not the maf sensor.

the computer is actually telling the tech that the maf sensor is stuck completely open, around 250 when it should be idling around 3-4. (not exactly sure what those numbers are measured in).

called some peeps, all they recommended was to clean the IAC, check the TPS (replaced that within the last year) or check for a vacuum leak. Also, the CEL comes on instantaniously once the car is turned on and after resetting the ECU, which according to the tech, is a sign of an electrical problem.

I need to know what you guys think of the situation. Please let me know, it sucks riding my bike to work in the freaking cold.

[Dawgz]

take ur safcII, and for the air sensor wire or the maf wire, put it back to stock. Basically bypassing the SafcII.

It might be ur safc.

[Akfahad]

I already did rewire the maf sensor back to stock when i put in the stock maf sensor.

r u saying to remove the air sensor wire/maf wire on the ECU and put it on the stock location?

[Dawgz]

Yes. U know how the safcII install makes u cut the maf/air flow wire so it can alter the signal and spit out a tuned signal to the ecu? Try to bypass that and make it the stock connection.

[Akfahad]

^^hit it on the nose Dawgz!! That's exactly what we ended up doing. running fine now, just a little rich, need to swap the tt maf sensor back on. We ended up disconnecting the yellow and white wire from the safc that connect to the pink ecu wire.

so now my question is, since we disconnected those wires, it's reading from the actual maf rather than the tuned one (pink ecu wire is maf sensor)...so i'm assuming my tune will be messed up a bit. The fuel trims that I tuned for shouldn't have been effected, but the air reading is now messed up...correct? And does that mean I need to get a new safcII? Weird that just one day, it messed up.

[Dawgz]

Right now with the safcII basically disconnected, u really have no tune, ur ECU is fighting to keep ur car at the stock AFR....i would NOT drive ur car hard right now or go into boost till u get a new safcII, or fix the one u have.

U might not need another safcII, i would suggest that u go into the settings and write down all the fuel curve settings the safcII makes at whatever rpm, after u have written down everything, reset the safcII back to OEM. Re-connect the maf wires to the safcII like how u originally had it...then Re-enter everything back into the safcII, and then run it, if it still is bad or throws codes, put the wires back to how they are right now, and replace ur safcII.

[Dawgz]

o, by the way, if ur gonna use the car while u try to fix ur safcII or get a new one, reset the ecu.

[Akfahad]

Got it

[---CAMRAZY---]

Josh, I'm glad you got it fixed... Great job Dawgz!!

[Dawgz]

^ chea.

[Akfahad]

yeah, I know Milt, I was gettin' worried...just gotta trouble shoot the safc now.