A big concern

[jhall229]

Well, dealer says there is an open in the EGR circuit and charging me a whopping $500 for everything parts labor and some intake and fuel system cleaning. I know what you're thinking: do it yourself, and I would, but they also are offering a 1 year unlimited mileage warranty and I just cant pass that up. So I'm basically paying $200 for a warranty on this problem after looking up the price that I could get the parts and cleaning agents.

I about ready to fully enjoy the car. I will keep you posted on how things go.

[SpeedySolara]

Seems like $500 isnt too bad for what they're offering and you'll get your car up to speed. I'm sure you'll enjoy your Solara.

[Chinky420]

just make sure you get all their warranty terms in writing.

there's nothing as predicatable as a shop spouting about the great warranty they offer, which suddenly disappears once they have to honor it.


in regards to our common issue of the RPM dropping on a delay, my tranny mech said that my throttle position sensor was jumping downwards from 1.2 volts to 0.7 volts (while all the other voltage changes were smooth and gradual). this is what he said was causing that delay between taking the foot off the pedal, and the engine following suit.

no suggestion on how to fix it was made, though.



hope your solara is feeling better though, now that you've done some maintenance.

[jhall229]

Well I got it home today and I noticed a nice increase in performance but as soon as I pulled into my driveway my rpm's starting jumping again

It wasnt as bad this time and I still think it may have something to do with downshifting. I called the service manager and asked if maybe the injection and throttle cleaners they used take time to run their coarse and he told me they did. But I'm still glad I got that warranty on the work because knowing my luck, the EGR vavle wasn't the only problem.

Thanks for the info on the throttle position sensor Chinky420. That sounds about right there. And I noticed my car is still doing it so I guess I'm not alone.

[Chinky420]

as for the cleaners: except for the STP fuel additive, i haven't use an injector cleaner, so i don't know if the cleaner they used is the same (i.e. it'll be there until you refill your tank), or if it's something different. you should have asked them how long it typically takes for the cleaners to run their course.


and as for TB cleaners, if they used the aerosol type (i.e. the type you can buy from autozone), then it shouldn't take too long to run its course (most people who have cleaned their own TB have said they notice difficulty starting directly after cleaning, but then it should have all burned off afterwards).

[jhall229]

I took it back to the dealer today and they said it was the IAC circuitry, so JVR gets my respect for saying that earlier. I told the service manager I thought it was a throttle or air sensor of some sort, but why would they take my word for it

So he tries to charge me another $400 and I got pretty fumed. Their reasoning was that they tied in the old misfire codes with the EGR valve, so that's why they replaced that orginally. Personally, I don't think they had a very experienced tech actually look at it. Luckily the manager decided to cover the costs.

Hopefully this is the end of my troubles. Thanks for the help all, and I'll keep you posted.

[RandySolara]

Damn, well it happened again and this time it's not going away. I have just been so busy with work that its dark when I get home and I'm just too tired to try to figure this out.

The car sometimes idles rougly, but sometimes it just idles low. It almost wants to stall out sometimes so when im at a red light I have to put it in neutral and give it a little gas

The problem seems to be brought on by the car shifting and down shifting, but I think it's tied more into the throttle some how.

I know its not a dirty throttle body, its not bad plugs or wires. I suppose it could still be the coil pack or a sensor or a vacuum leak.

Im about ready to just take it to the dealer

Check your steerin fluid and the steering-wheel, this happened to my dad's Toyota Camry 95 long time ago, sometime it shakin the steerin wheel when at high speed too, mech-guy said somethin wrong in the steerin part, censor somethin like that, i wasnt sure cause my dad told me that. When you buy the car you should check your car's history on Carfax.com if the car was "Lemon" or somethin, they will buy the car back from you guarantee" only 29$ for full records history, spent 10k$ for a car spend 30$ isnt too much but its safe ! i hope there minor prob for u so u dont spend too much.

Spark plugs has nothin to do with that situation, gas has nothin to do with that also, the high octan the high performin the engine run/work, high-octan burn faster so it make ur car run faster, low octan its burn slower but low octan cause the gas tank dirty so sometimes we need to use F-injection" or highest octan.

Spark-plugs are for the engine to start-up, every Motor engine has spark-plugs, motocyble/automobil/tractor/pumper especially every engine using gas/diesel, some old car cannot start engine because of the Plugs are old or dirty whatever it is, if new Plugs = your Starter = better avoide starter to burn, and its cost alot. Spark plugs just start up engine and stay there, they dont work along with engine like other parts, why they suggest us to get new Spark plugs when its Winter ? for the engine to start in a good mood, its very important, without plugs/battery, nothin work ! ur be frozen in the snow

Anyways bro, take to the SHOP and ask them to check but show them that you know what happen already to avoide them to draw more money, if you dont agree, i suggest to take to 2/3 shop and ask before you want to take the action. some mech-guy are scammers, they tell you oh this happen blah blah, later they tell you oh this cause that and you spend all your money on them.